One week to go!

xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 02:40 PM posted in General Discussion

I fly to China on Friday, very exciting! Racing around work like a nutter trying to finish everything off, and trying to get ready in between. Schedule looks like this:

Friday 22nd - Fly to Hong Kong

Sat 23rd - arrive, change into suit, get bus to Guangzhou, attempt to seem like suitable choice to girlfriend parents

Sun 24th - meet entire family. Attempt not to embarrass myself. Have everyone stare at my enormous nose.

Mon 25th - be taken around site of forthcoming asian olympics

Tue-wed - be shown the marvels of guangzhou...

Thurs - girlfriend's birthday!

Fri 29th - fly to Shanghai. Be forced to go to the expo, because apparently they're throwing tickets at government employees, in order to get more visitors through the gates than the Japanese Expo did...

Sat 30th - Explore Shanghai. Bullet Train to Nanjing - stay with grandma.

Sun 31st - meet the entire other half of the family. Repeat big nose staring exercise. Smile nicely at everyone.

Monday -Tuesday - explore Nanjing, then back to guangzhou

Wed - bus to Hong Kong, stay with uncle

Thur - stay with friend

Fri - get up super early, go to airport. Arrive in England. Die of exhaustion.

Can't wait! Still can't speak Chinese for toffee, but I'm sure we'll muddle through. The only problem is that since we're being forced (literally!) to go to the sodding expo (and on one of the final days too, which means it will be so packed it's ludicrous!), we might not get a chance to go to the Chinesepod offices, which was the whole point of going to Shanghai in the first place!  Don't suppose you fancy opening on a Saturday? :-)

Anyway, any last minute tips, tricks, recommendations? Lay 'em on me, Cpod massive! Not sure when we'll have Internet access, but I shall keep a journal on my ipod and a metric ton of photos and spam the hell out of you when I can!

edit: will the post show up this time? :)

 

 

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xiao_liang
November 19, 2010 at 10:01 PM

Question for you all - help please!

My mum has written to Christine's parents to thank them for their gift to her. So Christine has to translate what she's written for them into Chinese. But we're having trouble with this sentence:

Your lovely daughter has volunteered to translate this and forward it to you.

The sentence itself isn't a problem, but we can't seem to translate "your lovely daughter" - isn't it typical that Chinese doesn't have an easy way to describe someone as lovely! Any help much appreciated :)

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xiao_liang
November 21, 2010 at 10:11 PM

Haha, I see what you mean! Well, she's 26, so nearly early 20s :) Thanks ZLJ and Yuandong :)

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www.aichinese.com
November 21, 2010 at 03:37 AM

yep,乖巧 is certainly a very good option. The only thing is that depending on how old Christine is. 乖巧 will be perfect for teenagers or early twenties. :)

The issue is xiao_liang, you may not want to mention this to Christine.....By the way, this is Yuandong from AI Speech.

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zhenlijiang
November 20, 2010 at 10:26 PM

Of course I'm no authority on this but 乖巧 looks like a good word (from the explanation my C-J dictionary is giving). Seems appropriately like the kind of thing the parents' generation would say about the children's, grown up or not. Again it may not be a perfect match, but it seems like you have enough options on hand and now only need to decide what you guys like best in this instance.

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xiao_liang
November 20, 2010 at 05:56 PM

Oh, apparently, she was considering using 乖巧 which has a lot of connotations to do with someone who is well brought-up, socially appropriate, and also lovely?

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xiao_liang
November 20, 2010 at 05:45 PM

Thanks for all this help, anonymous AI Speech person (and everyone else!). I think 可爱 doesn't quite have the same meaning in terms of "cute" that perhaps that word has in english, so might be suitable, especially combined with considerate.

Thanks all, much appreciated! Hard business this translation game!

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www.aichinese.com
November 20, 2010 at 02:01 PM

Hello, actually, 周到 is a very good one. I think 您可爱而周到的女儿 is better than 细心. If xiao liang would like to take out of the 可爱,then you might want to say 您细心而周到的女儿 because from a native point of view, 您周到的女儿 sounds a bit weird. Not because of the grammar but because of habit, we simply don't say that that often.

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RJ
November 20, 2010 at 09:38 AM

I think Zhen is right. I had the same initial thoughts as you xiao liang when considering "可爱" but When I translate using Kingsford roll-over it says: "loveliness", "likability", "prettiness". IM translator says "amiable", "cute", "lovely". Perhaps you would prefer something that means considerate, such as 周到?Since it is coming from a native, I would think that "您可爱而细心的女儿" (the AI suggestion) is probably a good one.

Jason? John? Jen?

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zhenlijiang
November 20, 2010 at 08:58 AM

Hey XiaoLiang while you wait for someone who knows (btw, not that it matters but I think AISpeech's suggestion is very good):

Why do you think between the two of you you're having trouble with the word? Yes, lovely is specific. It's also English. I guess you're saying Christine is not perfectly clear on what is meant by it? Otherwise she would have no trouble producing the Chinese that works best, right? So you'd like someone like, well let's face it, Jenny or John or Jason to help out here.

People express emotions in different ways in different cultures and languages. 可爱 isn't just about "cute" (and of course "cute" again is another word with more than one use/shade), that I'm sure Christine could tell you.

"Lovely" is difficult to express in Japanese also; I don't think there is one word that is an exact match in Japanese. That doesn't mean that a Chinese or Japanese can't understand the feelings that make an English-speaking person say "lovely" of course. Believe it, many words aren't going to have an exact match!

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xiao_liang
November 20, 2010 at 08:13 AM

Hmm. But cute? That just seems wrong. She's trying to say she's lovely, as in a lovely person... It's kind of a specific word, I can't believe there isn't a translation!

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www.aichinese.com
November 20, 2010 at 05:38 AM

Dear RJBerki, 妩媚 normally isn't seen as a compliment. So careful with this. 美好 only uses with things. i.e. 美好的爱情。

So literally, 您可爱的女儿 is the best choice.

On the other hand, I guess in this context, xiao_liang's mum is trying to say Christine is considerate and helpful to do the translation. So I guess

您可爱而细心的女儿 (your lovely and considerate daughter), from my perspective, is probably better in this case. :D

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RJ
November 20, 2010 at 01:15 AM

how about 妩媚 or we just had 美好 in a recent lesson.

您可爱的女儿?

您妩媚 的女儿?

您美好的女儿?

do any of these work?

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nesevis
November 15, 2010 at 08:47 PM

Very interesting reading. From a vegetarian to chicken feet in half a year(?) is very impressive. I normally eat everything, but the snack version of chicken feet just didn't tickle my snack bone. At all.

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xiao_liang
November 18, 2010 at 07:44 AM

Well, in for a penny, in for a pound ...

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nesevis
November 18, 2010 at 12:30 AM

Don't get me wrong, I'm an omnivore. It's just surprising to me because every vegetarian I've ever known has been ... less than adventurous - even with a scope that limited - as far as food goes.

More power to you! And meat!

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xiao_liang
November 16, 2010 at 07:22 AM

Yea, I wasn't wild about them. But we did have some nice salt and vinegar ones back here this weekend. As for vegetarianism, I guess that's the power of love? Something like that, anyway :-)

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svik
November 15, 2010 at 02:57 AM

I also send  thanks. It was a pleasure to follow your trip.

I enjoyed the part about paying them back in England, as I was having the same thought myself.

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svik
November 18, 2010 at 01:34 AM

Oh yeah, the Olympics! I wasn't even thinking of that.

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xiao_liang
November 16, 2010 at 07:20 AM

Hah! I know what you mean. They were all talking about the 2012 olympics and I was thinking, "hope mum is ready for visitors..." lol

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mikeinewshot
November 14, 2010 at 08:53 PM

Great diary - I did keep a diary of my trips, but not as eloquent I fear, but I must go back and look ...

Thanks for the memories!

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xiao_liang
November 16, 2010 at 07:18 AM

thanks mike! I'd love it if you'd share some of yours, although I know these things are private so I understand if not :-)

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 10:36 AM

That's it, diary finished. Thanks for putting up with me spamming it here - I've really enjoyed people's reactions to various bits of it! Maybe I'll do it again when I visit for the 2nd time :) 

If anyone is really interested, I put the whole thing on a blog (for my parents :P) with pictures for each entry. You can find it here:

http://chiduoyidian.blogspot.com

 

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xiao_liang
November 18, 2010 at 07:43 AM

Lol, well I think both are fine, but the second was definitely what I heard day in and day out!

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zhenlijiang
November 18, 2010 at 07:18 AM

Hey is it 多吃一点 or 吃多一点? Always thought it was the former, is the latter good too?

Once that burning question's out of the way I think I can settle in comfortably to start reading your blog (nice pictures!).

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bababardwan
November 16, 2010 at 01:31 PM

tal,

thanks for explaining mate. Sorry, I was just trying to expand on my list of one [being youtube] so as to be more considerate of you guys in China. The last thing I wanted to do was cause trouble.

"interminable discussions"

...fair enough. I'll drop it mate. Cheers :)

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Tal
November 16, 2010 at 12:58 PM

Perhaps I'd better say something to explain my amusement at your desire for 'a reliable list of blocked sites which is kept updated'. Regardless of XL's wikipedia list (which I have not looked at actually), seems to me such a thing is almost impossible and quite possibly pointless. My own experience is that the number of blocked sites is literally countless, and some of them are blocked one week, and unblocked the next. Sometimes they are blocked one minute, then unblocked the next. This is in keeping with the style of the censorship, which I am quite sure is intended to endlessly befuddle and frustrate. I also think that making such a list is just asking for trouble, but then that's no bother to China hobbyists who don't actually reside in China, or who come here for holidays or business now and then.

Anyway gents, no offence, but I really have no time or appetite for these interminable discussions these days. I try and keep up with using CPod to learn Chinese though, and that's really what it's best for I've come to feel.

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bodawei
November 15, 2010 at 02:26 PM

Hee hee, as long as you're not copying down my Chinese. I model my Chinese on China Telecom ads and SMSs from my Chinese mates. Apart from dialogues here of course. Lately I started copying sentences out of nciku and going through them with a native speaker - it was only then I realized that it must be like Wikipedia, some of the sentences are just wrong. Still, good exercise to pick the wrong ones. (So hard for me to correct broken grammar.) I used to copy slabs of stuff that miantiao wrote, because he was so prolific, some of it must have been right. Then he told me not to; modelling is a challenge.

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 01:30 PM

thanks for the tip mate. I wonder what the best blog site in China is then?

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 12:05 PM

I come from where the wind begins. No key, I AM the CPod server, or should I say a little program in it just spitting out random comments,hehe. Now for my next trick.....

Nah, mate, I just copy down your words of wisdom like a good student, hehe ;)

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xiao_liang
November 15, 2010 at 11:56 AM

I think it has horrible formatting, particularly of picture captions. Plus it doesn't let you customise enough things e.g. I can't remove the posting dates from every entry, even though they make no sense with this sort of blog.

But that's just me... :)

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bodawei
November 15, 2010 at 11:36 AM

What I would like to know is, how did you get those posts back!? Have you got a special key to the ChinesePod server? :) That was a pretty cool trick.

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bodawei
November 15, 2010 at 11:35 AM

Hi xiao_liang

Thanks mate - you make me feel special. :)

Hmm, perhaps Wordpress is not the easiest - I wrote a couple of entries there and I've never been back. Actually Yahoo went from being one of the worst to a reasonable site last time I looked. But Yahoo itself; it seems to be awfully slow to open and move around the site. The actual blogging facility is much improved.

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paulinurus
November 15, 2010 at 10:53 AM

Wordpress is easier reading for me...very interesting blog. I wish I had a friend or relative to show us around in the different countries during our whirlwind trip.... would have made a big difference ...relatives/friends versus tourist guides.

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 10:48 AM

没问题。呵呵我是一个很好奇的人

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RJ
November 15, 2010 at 10:44 AM

sorry mate, (re the missing posts) I wish I could tell you it was something sinister, like go manly back from the dead, but truth be told, I think I did it myself as I dozed in my chair here. My fingers grow heavy on that mouse button. Sorry, I didn't realize there were any other replies attached either, until you waxed all investigational. But you saved em, so all is well.

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 09:36 AM

good effort mate. Why is wordpress Horrible?

love the pics btw. :)

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xiao_liang
November 15, 2010 at 09:03 AM

There you go, bodawei, just for you (and anyone else in China):

http://chiduoyidian.wordpress.com/

p.s. wordpress is HORRIBLE :)

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 06:55 AM

yeah, but that wouldn't explain the other disappearing posts, and no email was sent explaining a deletion so I'm reasonably sure that it was some random tech glitch or I wouldn't have reposted it. But I'm happy if it is deleted if there is some problem. No biggie anyway. You're last comment is interesting. 令人想起来二十六年以前

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bodawei
November 15, 2010 at 05:08 AM

It could have been the 'learning about sex by watching animals do it' - quite inappropriate in my opinion. :)

Speaking of censorship, my better half posts academic materials on QQ for her students. When this all started she noticed quite a distinct lag (several minutes) between the original post and when it became visible. She asked 'what's going on?' and a student said 'oh, that's just the Government (sic) checking to make sure what you posted is suitable'. Still not sure if that is Chinese humour or real. Or if it is real, I wonder if it is someone in our university who checks the class groups postings.

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 04:57 AM

ChinesePod.

Ok, I'm going to assume those last 3 posts disappeared due to some technical glitch, and not due to moderation [ especially given RJ's post amongst the 3 was particularly short and innocuous [IMHO] ] and re-post them below. Forgive me if I have the wrong take on this and from my point of view feel free to remove the comments if you think they are unsuitable.

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RJBerki in reply to bababardwan

baba,

In my experience one can never spot any "giraffes" from the night before, once the next morning rolls around.

3 hours ago from the Web. Reply

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bababardwan in reply to RJBerki

RJ,

hehe, you're probably right. Maybe someone will have to point 'em out to me.

bodawei,

"I don't want you worrying about this"

..thanks mate. I just hate to miss out on a good joke. :)

"very very very long"

...I guess I half suspected that may be part of the amusement. Possibly I wasn't clear enough what I was really after. If I post a link to a youtube video, poddies in China get upset because they can't see it and naturally feel left out. Part of the problem here is that in some situations it's hard to find the same video anywhere else, but I usually do try and at least I'm aware of the issue. Same thing happened with xiaoliangs blog. If it had been me writing it, I would not have been aware that that blog site was being blocked in China. So I thought it might be useful for the sake of poddies in China to have a list for the rest of us so we're aware what's not going to get through there. I guess it wouldn't have to be comprehensive, just a list of the ones poddies are likely to use for such communication on the boards.

"the idea that people publish sites that are potential targets, for the apparent convenience of the regulators"

..right, I see what you mean. That wasn't my original question though, but I did follow up with that question about possible alternates and I see the problem. I guess just the list of blocked sites, or if alternates are posted, things like tudou that are mainstream Chinese sites [and in my opinion therefore seem unlikely to be blocked or made a target for regulators]. Thanks for your patience in explaining mate. I think I understand your mirth now...always better to laugh than cry I agree, hehe.

53 minutes ago from the Web. Reply

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bodawei in reply to bababardwan

'mainstream Chinese sites'

Definitely the way to go.

Actually, people forget in all of this that the Chinese sites often carry material that to my mind is far more challenging/threatening than anything you see in the Western media. (I know I have gone on about this before.)

This is an area where there is a great deal of misunderstanding on both sides (China and the West). My students in general really do not understand the Western media, but worryingly they have ideas that are quite bizarre from my point of view. Similarly, people in the West have ideas about the Chinese media and censorship that I think are equally mis-guided.

PS. This is way off topic but too funny to pass up. I was skipping through a Chinese writing textbook for English majors yesterday and saw this discussion about sex education (written in English.) It has a little quiz at the end. Q1. How did you learn about sex? A. (i) From watching animals. (ii) Your parents. (iii) Your teachers.

3 minutes ago from the Web. Reply

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bababardwan
November 15, 2010 at 03:19 AM

what happened to the 3 replies after this one?

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 05:57 PM

You didn't happen to snap any pics of:

"snippets of romantic English "poetry", usually lyrics they've assumedly grabbed from the Internet, hilariously misspelled and delightfully sappy"

...did you?

No, sorry. They were already cringing and begging me not to read the English, so taking a picture of it would have been a bit rude :)

"It's always weird meeting internet people for the first time"

..I'd be interested to hear more.

Well, don't you think? You get an impression of people via the internet and they're never quite the same. It's very possible to create a certain personality over the internet, and you tend to find people seem somehow to be a paler version of the full-colour you expected from their writing...

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 05:52 PM

Oh, sorry about that, it's just a standard blogger template I used...

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paulinurus
November 14, 2010 at 05:27 PM

Went to your blog site... great looking pics, but I had difficulty reading the text....fading white on blue background makes for strained reading.

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RJ
November 14, 2010 at 04:37 PM

I got it, the vpn is on top of an ISP account. I was thinking you meant this vpn was instead of an ISP and was unfavorable because it cost money. My question then was are the other isp's free then. Clear now, I think. Oh and to be clear I was only talking about home service.

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RJ
November 14, 2010 at 03:11 PM

no you never used the word banned. That was me, but I meant blocked. Im still just trying to figure out how it works. You say having a vpn gets around this and those cost money so I assumed there is some sort of free internet without vpn? In the US there is no free internet. Everybody pays for an internet "service" - I pay $40 per month for this. A VPN is using internet lines to develop a private sub network in the workplace for example. That is the only use of the term I have come across in the US. I mean we have censoring and blocking perhaps on public tv because it is free. Cable tv which costs much more than internet solves that problem. So I guess Im still confused as to what is the standard model, how does the avg person get internet, and what does it mean to have a vpn?

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bodawei
November 14, 2010 at 02:45 PM

I'm the wrong person to be giving advice because I have never paid for a vpn. They range from free to quite expensive (maybe $80 a year?) with everything in between. Like everything I think you get what you pay for. The free ones seem to be tracked down and blocked by the Government; I'm not sure if they ever block a paid one - probably not. I imagine they block the free ones because they don't want everyone getting around the blocks for nothing - it would make the firewall all seem a bit pointless wouldn't it?

Are they technically illegal? I don't know. Actually I'm not even sure what that means exactly. Hopefully someone can put us straight there.

I don't think I used the term 'banned' (sorry if I did) - certain sites are blocked. ('Banned' sounds more serious, as though the authorities are bent on 'closing some operation down'. As these are off-shore activities in the main that clearly is impractical.) Some just from time to time. And it seems that this includes some vpns.

'free govt controlled and financed public internet' - not sure what this means either exactly, as I explained in my IP the business model for the Internet here works pretty much the same as in the West. Everyone pays one way or another. You pay through your taxes to some extent and usually there is a fixed charge (your phone line if you use ADSL) and a user charge based on volume of data. You can of course buy unlimited downloads, and you can get three different speeds from the largest provider of ADSL where I live China Telecom.

Also - you get big discounts if you pay in advance (up to a year is possible as far as I know), and there is no 'contract'*, that is what I like about it.

* By contract I mean those arrangements we have in the West that involve signing up for a year or two to secure a certain level of payment, but you have to pay even if you discontinue with that provider. I am strictly a pay-as-you-go kind of person these days.

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pretzellogic
November 14, 2010 at 02:35 PM

so I just had a conversation about this over the weekend. What I learned is that for FEE VPNs that require a US credit card have no problem working in China. FREE VPNs and VPNs that require a Chinese bank credit card tend to be blocked, or stop working after awhile. This has been consistent with my experience. Not sure what other expat experiences have been.

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pretzellogic
November 14, 2010 at 02:31 PM

I wish I had kept a journal like this when I first went to China. Good job documenting your thoughts; it will be fun for you to go back to your diary 20 years from now to see what you were thinking then.

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RJ
November 14, 2010 at 02:10 PM

I think you should clarify what you mean by any given internet site is "blocked" - you mean you cant get it for free. It is accessible. Right? For a few dollars a month? Or are these vpn's expensive? Are they technically breaking the law by making these sites available? Because saying its banned in china makes me think so. If its just a matter of a given internet site not being available on free govt controlled and financed public internet,, that is quite a different story. Which is it?

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bodawei
November 14, 2010 at 01:56 PM

It is actually a pretty short list (when you note that it includes ones previously blocked) but I am doubtful that it is much use. Even if it was accurate, which is doubtful. There are lots of things that are blocked for a short time. And it understates the level of censorship, on several levels. (Big topic.) And overlooks the fact that anyone that wants to can get around the restrictions anyway. Making it an economic (or class-based) censorship. But also interesting is self-censorship (eg. in the media) - & the vast majority of the people are quite happy with the blocks.

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bodawei
November 14, 2010 at 01:49 PM

Baba

I don't want you worrying about this!! :) The list you asked for is not that funny (unless it happens to be very very very long .. that could be funny in a black kind of way - I must go and have a peek). I was calling to mind the idea that people publish sites that are potential targets, for the apparent convenience of the regulators - that is what I thought was funny. But who knows, this is the Internet - probably there is a list!!

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bababardwan
November 14, 2010 at 01:32 PM

thanks mate. That was exactly what I was after. Now I'm wondering what I said that was so funny. I guess it was my phraseology. 我也有点儿累,所以大家晚安。I think I should take a fresh look at this in the morning and see it I can spot my gaffe.

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 01:23 PM

Something like this?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_websites_blocked_in_the_People's_Republic_of_China

Sorry about putting it on blogspot bodawei - like I said, it was mainly for my parents...

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bababardwan
November 14, 2010 at 01:15 PM

hehe, you know I did just make out this little bell in the back of my head that said this was going to be a daft question...but when have I paid heed to that bell before? hehe. It's funny how some of us are only funny when we're not trying to be, but I'll take any I can get hehe, and would ask the same question again.

The site I am most aware of being blocked is youtube. If there is nowhere that lists the other sites that are blocked, maybe we could start our own list of the important sites that are blocked [with an added bonus being a suggestion of an alternative site that isn't blocked...eg instead of youtube one can try toudo or youku]. Do I hear more hilarity coming?

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bodawei
November 14, 2010 at 01:04 PM

'Is there a convenient list of banned sites somewhere?'

Baba, someone on ChinesePod asked something rather like that before, referring to free vpns, didn't they?! It was, I think:

'Does anyone keep a list of vpn sites that are not blocked?'

LOL!

I hope I didn't make that whole thing up. My creativity goes wild when I am tired. And tired by the way is not a euphemism, I am drunk on nothing more than European hot chocolate.

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bababardwan
November 14, 2010 at 01:02 PM

sorry mate, that probably came out wrong [hehe, though I do note your emoticon is having a jolly old time rolling around laughing...hehe...very good]. I know these blocked sites must be hen mafan, bushi fangbian. I was hoping there would be a site that was easy to find and understand that listed them all so as to facilitate posting that took this into account for you guys. Am I to surmise by the laughter that there is no such list readily accessed?

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Tal
November 14, 2010 at 12:56 PM

A convenient list of banned sites? http://www.thescubasite.com

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bababardwan
November 14, 2010 at 12:54 PM

I didn't know you guys couldn't get blogspot either. Is there a convenient list of banned sites somewhere [that's kept up to date]?

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bodawei
November 14, 2010 at 12:49 PM

Unfortunately we can't get blogspot in China (not least because I have an old blog there) - but I enjoyed your reports on this site. If you got enthusiastic for China dwellers you can put your stuff on wordpress or yahoo for example.

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bababardwan
November 14, 2010 at 12:27 PM

RJ, wo wanquan tongyi. That was my favourite line also.

Xiaoliang

I also love how nicely "quelle horreur" sits next to the French looking get up in his avatar.

This P guy I can relate to. "Quite the character" is always a good thing in my books.

You didn't happen to snap any pics of:

"snippets of romantic English "poetry", usually lyrics they've assumedly grabbed from the Internet, hilariously misspelled and delightfully sappy"

...did you?

"It's always weird meeting internet people for the first time"

..I'd be interested to hear more.

"if you're made up of the people you meet, I'm made up right now of a bunch of people I could barely communicate with"

..lol. I love these observations of yours.

"My keenness to further my language ability is certainly redoubled"

...great to hear. Jiayou mate.

oh, and thanks for the link. I'm keen to go check that out. :)

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RJ
November 14, 2010 at 11:48 AM

Having been to all the cities you write about, and ridden the same trains, I have to say xiao liang, that you did a good job of capturing the essence of each place, emotional and physical. but the line that sums it up best I think was:

"something about my view on the world has changed and I'm not yet sure what that is".

This, with you I also share, and it always makes traveling, especially to Asia, so worth it. There is no feeling that can compare to that first trip and the way it makes you wonder how you ever could have not known these things before. How there was never any urgency to correct this, and how now you know, there should have been.

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 10:34 AM

5th November 1.14pm UK time

Quelle horreur, we're an hour away from landing at heathrow, the holiday is over.

Last night we went for dinner with a couple of friends who live in Hong Kong. I met P online when we were both learning japanese (well, I was failing to learn, he was already fluent and living in Japan on the JET English teaching programme). He left Japan to get married to his long term girlfriend who lived in hong kong, and set about teaching himself Cantonese instead. Now they're expecting their first child. It's always weird meeting internet people for the first time, and P is ... Quite the character shall we say. He's a Canadian who is obsessed with his mythical Scottish ancestry. To the point where he got married in a kilt, and goes to regular bagpipe lessons. The "people don't stare in HK" rule doesn't apply here, because when we found him, he was wearing an English flat cap, tweed waistcoat (with pocketwatch) and was sporting enormous sideburns. Very hard to spot in the crowds of a HK mall I can tell you. His wife by contrast was a totally normal Chinese girl (although a very pretty one), sharp as a knife with a great sense of humour. Quite the fun couple. I particularly enjoyed when we sat down to dinner because I got to exclaim to P "oh wow! You can use chopsticks?", literally his least favourite question of all time, and a joke I've been waiting 3 years to make since I found out how often he got asked it in japan. He turned an interesting colour, worth the wait.

We also got to browse their wedding albums (2 of them!), something we'd previously done with JD and XL as well. This custom is one I view with a mixture of hilarity and fondness. In case you don't know, it's where (usually months prior to the wedding), the couple is taken for a day or two and photographed in a multitude of scenes and outfits, gazing into each other's eyes or walking hand in hand through blossom filled fields... You get the idea. They don't come cheap, the makeup is magazine quality and every photo is airbrushed within an inch of its life to make sure everyone really looks their best, or in fact better than their best could possibly be. My favourite bit is that in China, they intersperse the pictures (which are presented in the form of massive A3 poster books) with snippets of romantic English "poetry", usually lyrics they've assumedly grabbed from the Internet, hilariously misspelled and delightfully sappy. I love the whole idea, although I'm admittedly slightly concerned about paying over a thousand pounds for the privilege. Perhaps I'm just so vain I want someone to photoshop me handsome and put me in a book so I can claim I looked like that one day.

The enormity of the trip I've been on is starting to dawn on me, and how difficult I'm going to find it settling in back home. It's not just that it went so well and that I seem to have been accepted by all (although I think 爷爷's jury is still out...), something about my view on the world has changed and I'm not yet sure what that is. Perhaps this happens when you incorporate the world view of a whole new potential family into your own (I have to confess, I can't remember from the first time I had to do that. It was very different, I was much much younger and we were all English...). I'm not sure what it is, and whether it will last, but if you're made up of the people you meet, I'm made up right now of a bunch of people I could barely communicate with. My keenness to further my language ability is certainly redoubled, and I've been requested so many times to return, it looks like the ability to practice again might come sooner rather than later.

Right now I'm a little tired, missing my children very very much, and enduring ear-popping from hell as we descend (a cold can play merry hell with your inner ear, after we came down the HK peak cable car I couldn't hear out of my left ear for an hour...). Home to merry england and a world of work, responsibilities, money worries, and everyday life. And now, a whole new possible future has become a definite one to prepare for...

I have to turn this off now, time to land.

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pretzellogic
November 14, 2010 at 02:28 PM

."..but if you're made up of the people you meet, I'm made up right now of a bunch of people I could barely communicate with".

It will be interesting to continue on your Chinese language journey and learn to communicate with these people, and then realize that you're really the same people. Or at least have the same wants, desires, aspirations, if not methods.

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xiao_liang
November 12, 2010 at 12:17 PM

4th November 5pm

Turns out I never finished my diary yesterday, slacked off for the first time. Hong kong is bizarre. It's like this crazy mix of china and England wrapped up in this tiny selection of islands. The buses are the london routemaster buses that are painfully familiar to me, and they drive on the left (which is right, if you see what I mean). At one point last night on a bus we could have been on any London road until I looked round and was blinded by the glare of blistering neon.

I mentioned before the game Shenmue. It's one of my favourites so forgive me if I'm boring about it. The thing is, it was partially set in hong kong, so last night I had the most peculiar experience. I was staring idly out of the bus window when suddenly I knew I'd been to this place before. I recognised the street, the buildings, even the neon signs! Of course I'd only ever been there digitally, but that was one hell of a geeky thrill.

We've been up to hong kong peak via tram this morning which was fun and very very steep. Of course, it's Chinese enough that the moment you step off the tram, it's into a shopping mall. There are even a few houses peppering the tree-strewn hilltop,which I should imagine are ludicrously expensive. Not that having tourists peeking through your windows using the viewpoint telescopes can be much fun. We had our photo taken on the top of the viewpoint, which was a bit disappointingly misty, by weather or smog I'm not sure. The photographer assured us they could make the view clearer for us in the final photo. When we went to collect the photo, what they actually offered to do was Photoshop us onto a totally different photo with better weather. Or take a photo of us in front of a screen and put us on a night scene. You know, just in case you wanted a memento of something that never happened.

Being surrounded by fellow foreigners again was a bit weird. It reminded me again that here in hong kong, Christine and I don't have a secret language. Normally, we could talk in Chinese, or in china, we could mostly use english (albeit cautiously, because I'm sure some people understood more than they were letting on). In HK, everyone understands both, and to make it worse, they all talk in cantonese, which I don't understand at all! At dinner last night, we had 4 people, all of whom had a different level of ability in all three languages. Conversation was tricky to say the least.

Oh also, and not particularly relevantly, but I know you're interested, the girls in hong kong are if anything, even prettier than Nanjing, the main difference being that the boys in HK are just as good looking. Oh also, the waiters are ruder and no-one could care less about the colour of your skin. No staring! Oh, unless you don't match the high standards of HK fashion, I guess.

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xiao_liang
November 14, 2010 at 10:07 PM

Oh, the one at Madame tussauds? Hehe, no, there was a little queue and we wanted to see the view :-)

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cinnamonfern
November 14, 2010 at 04:30 PM

Did you take a picture with the wax figurine of Bruce Lee at the top of the Peak? :D He was surprisingly short. For some reason in my head, being good at martial arts equates with being tall.

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bababardwan
November 12, 2010 at 12:51 PM

"Of course I'd only ever been there digitally, but that was one hell of a geeky thrill."

cool. that must have felt pretty surreal.

"You know, just in case you wanted a memento of something that never happened."

..hehe, yeah, exactly

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xiao_liang
November 11, 2010 at 08:56 AM

3rd November 9am

Today is our last day in china proper which is sad, so not much of interest will happen I think (hope!). I suppose that very much depends if the border authorities think I'm some kind of illegal antiques trader transporting bag-loads of Chinese antiquities across the border... I suppose I need to learn the mandarin for "my new potential relatives are just insanely generous!" I arrived with a suitcase and one bag. I'm leaving with a suitcase and three bags, all significantly heavier... I would never dream of complaining about the wonderful things I've been given, but did so many of them have to be made of stone?! I was talking about the gifts with C yesterday and she gave me a very level look and said "you know, all this has to be repaid when they come to England!" this is, of course, a very good point. I'll start saving immediately.

The cough I was whinging about earlier has developed into a cold to the intense concern of C's family. However it is with some relish that they've delved into the inexhaustible resource of Chinese medicine. I've no idea what half the things I've taken are, and even C's exemplary English can't tell me the translations for most of the ingredients. My plaintive pleas that I just want some paracetamol led us through about 3 Chinese dictionaries before Pleco rescued us. Turns out most of the things I took had it in anyway. I didn't ask how much, my liver was probably a goner long ago anyway...

4pm

Train journey from guangzhou to hong kong! To my delight, the train turned out to be a double decker train, which I've never seen before, and C's mum very nicely bought us first class tickets (for only ¥190 each) so for nearly the first time this trip, my knees aren't crushed against the seat in front. Sometimes being tall is a disadvantage

It was very emotional leaving china, especially for C after saying goodbye to her parents and grandparents. She's been in England for 10 years, but every time she comes home (and really, china will always be home) she is reminded of the family she has left behind. You can see in their eyes how very proud they are of her making such a success of herself so far away, she is the shining golden apple on her family tree. Even so, in such a very Chinese way, they talk again and again about what salary she should be aiming for, the next job, the end goal. The weight of expectation is heavy on her shoulders. I am filled with the urge not only to make her happy, but to give her a place in my country that she can call home, with a family that loves and cares for her as much as her Chinese one does. Being far away from home can be a lonely place and I can only hope love is the key to keeping that loneliness at bay.

Immigration out of china by train was considerably more lax than by bus or plane. A cursory glance at our massive amount of luggage (9 bags between us!) through a security check and a quick stamp on the passport at immigration. There was a 10 minute period or so where C and I mistakenly waited for each other worriedly in adjoining halls, convinced the other had been stopped by an over zealous immigration officer for some reason.

The train to Hong Kong has the most amount of white people I've seen in two weeks on it, which is a strange feeling. There seem to be some unspoken rules about meeting other foreigners in china. I was too busy enjoying myself to start with to clock it, but after a while I began to notice that none of the few white faces we passed would even look at me. It's almost like they didn't want the special feeling of being the foreign face to be interrupted by another "special" person, so it was easier to ignore it! This became something of an obsession after I'd worked it out and I went out of my way to give them a friendly nod or a smile. Of course, there's absolutely no reason to pay special attention to someone else just because their skin is the same colour as yours, and on consideration ignoring them is a far more normal reaction, but little things amuse me, so hey. There are enough people staring at you in china that one more doing so with a smile can't hurt I'm sure.

The train is making its way through rural china and it's the first time I've seen it by daylight. The first section was flat farmland, and I suppose I was mostly surprised by how ugly it was. I'm constantly told how poor the farmers that make up 2/3 of china are, and the ramshackle concrete block houses, dusty roads and piles of waste bear tribute to this. Maybe I'm being overly judgemental about one discrete area, but farmland in Britain is nearly all very beautiful, this is quite the contrast.

The flat land gives way to a town or two and then less destitute-seeming farmland interspersed with a more hilly landscape, which is truly beautiful. I see what I think are houses cleverly built into the hillside and I point them out to C who jolts with alarm and quickly folds my indicating finger away. They aren't houses, they're tombs, and pointing at them is very disrespectful. So now you know. I made the stupid 老外 mistake so you don't have to.

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cinnamonfern
November 14, 2010 at 04:26 PM

Yeah - I've been here in Asia (living in Hong Kong) since September. The place where I live is well outside the city proper and where I shop, everyone is Asian. Whenever I see another white face in that crowd, I feel this odd camaraderie. But say hello to them? Why - because we're both white? I think I'd weird them out. :) I just visited Stanley (tourist central!) and there were white people everywhere...which made me feel strangely uncomfortable. I think I feel rather Asian in my head now. Bizarre...

I do like running into Americans though when I'm wandering around...they're the ones who smile and say hello as you walk past each other. I miss that.

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pretzellogic
November 12, 2010 at 01:12 PM

Touche!

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xiao_liang
November 12, 2010 at 12:55 PM

Yea, I agree actually, that's why I said "Of course, there's absolutely no reason to pay special attention to someone else just because their skin is the same colour as yours, and on consideration ignoring them is a far more normal reaction, "

So while I there may be an aspect of blatant ignoring on their part, I think there was also a heavy aspect of my consciousness of my difference, and the conjoined feeling of similarity with a total stranger because of their skin colour. It was definitely a strange feeling, and I'd be interested how other people feel about it - I come from such a multicultural society that it's literally never been of note before.

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bababardwan
November 12, 2010 at 12:49 PM

you've got dirt on your nose, by the way. Did you know? Just there....

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bababardwan
November 12, 2010 at 12:42 PM

"none of the few white faces we passed would even look at me. It's almost like they didn't want the special feeling of being the foreign face to be interrupted by another "special" person, so it was easier to ignore it!"

...very interesting observation. I think John had an interesting blog post on sinosplice somewhere that may have touched on this [or came close to touching on it...possibly not...but I think there is one commenting on different laowai's]. Anyway, I'm wondering how different the interaction with other white faces was to back home in England? ...whether it's possible it was more a matter of being a contrast to being started at by the Chinese due to your laowainess, and in fact not that different to back home. Just a postulation..you were there and I wasn't..but I'd be interested to hear your reflections on that now that you're back home. :)

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xiao_liang
November 11, 2010 at 07:56 PM

Possibilities:

1) They get stared at more

2) They've never been stared at before, so it is more unusual

3) They are more sensitive and whiny

4) They don't whine more, you just talk to more white people :-p

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pretzellogic
November 11, 2010 at 07:14 PM

casual, statistically insignificant observation: caucasians seem more likely to comment on being stared at, or being different from the Chinese, than other ethnic groups. Why?

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 12:34 PM

2nd November 4pm

 

I am sitting in a park in central Guangzhou in the glorious sunshine, just me, a few hundred other people and my persistent cough. I have been unleashed alone upon china! Or more specifically I've been taken by taxi to the entrance of an enclosed park and been given strict instructions to not stray from the path, only leave the park by this gate, and don't talk to any strangers, especially if they offer me candy. Or drugs. I've also been given the address of the flat, a worried look, and a little note around my neck which reads "please look after this 老外". C is off having her hair done (again), and I'm having a wander. Or rather, an extended sit down and a hefty cough.

We've wandered quite a lot today. After some brief souvenir shopping we met up again with C's childhood friend, and did some more shopping. Then we had lunch and did some more shopping. After that we just did some shopping. This is the very specific kind of shopping where you don't actually buy anything, and in my case, get offered rolexes by shady gentlemen every twenty seconds.

At one point as we were leaving a market area and approaching the metro (which for the occasion of the Asian games has been made free along with all other public transport for a month) a long line of men in uniform streamed out of the entrance, each sporting a white helmet. "police?" I asked C, who was wearing an unreadable expression. Turns out they were something like city discipline officers. It was their job to clean away unlicensed market traders and beggars and they amount to little more than hired thugs. They take everything the traders have and they're none too gentle about it. Clean streets come at a cost, it seems.


The park is very lovely, and packed with a variety of old people, tiny kids, and flirting teenagers. It's just not exactly what I would call a park, per se. When I think of a park, I suppose what comes to mind is something like Hyde park in london, pathways surrounding large areas of grass, lakes, beds of flowers, trees, so on and so forth. 越秀公园 has several lakes but is mostly trees and bushes with lots and lots of concrete pathways leading to things like a funfair, a statue of five goats, and a playground made up of old pieces of military hardware. Which is nice. I did eventually manage to find something resembling an area of grass, but my hope of stretching out on the lawn in the sunshine was foiled by a sign whose English translation read, "Dear!  Do not trample!". This aside, it was very beautiful, and stretched for miles over several hills, I couldn't hope to see it all and gave up on climbing to the sun Yat sen memorial, instead settling for a Chinese cornetto and a wander home, a little disappointed I didn't get to see someone walking their bird.

 

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 10:54 PM

呵呵,亲爱的,别踩我

好的,我别踩牌子,可是我猜我可以踩草地上,采花,吃菜,什么的

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 10:22 PM

Oh, and this one from the expo:

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"polite language and no noising"

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 10:19 PM

Oh, and this was my other favourite engrish sign :)

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"Emergency Shelfter"

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 10:14 PM

Hmn, I didn't get the chinese of the one at the tombs...

But the grass one:

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 09:25 PM

"Dear! Do not trample!"

hehe, how sweet...do you remember the Chinese? Did you get any photos of such signs? [Also the one near the tombs ]

"a little disappointed I didn't get to see someone walking their bird."

..lol, very good mate. Nicely dropped in there. Tingshuo it's the early bird catches the bird.

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xiao_liang
November 09, 2010 at 02:09 PM

1st november 2pm

I've just discovered the newest terrorist threat to chinese airplanes. Crabs. The creepy seafood type, rather than the sexually transmitted disease, although I should imagine that'd be mighty distracting to a pilot who had to concentrate on a difficult landing.  Here's the thing: I always knew crabs were evil. It's crab season in this part of china, so i knew at some point my newfound skill of just eating anything put in front of me without looking at it was going to be put to its sternest test. I think crabs are loathsome loathsome creatures, and the idea of putting any part of them in my mouth fills me with unspeakable horror.

Xiao Yi was beside herself with pride today because for our last lunch in Nanjing she had purchased some fresh crabs and was treating us to this delicacy for lunch. This was actually a lovely gesture: Xiao Yi is the only person working in the house. She supports her husband, mother and son, working 7 days a week for a steady income. She had already showered us with gifts and bought our flight tickets back to guangzhou, so this additional treat was another expense she really didn't have to go to. With this in mind I was determined not to offer insult by turning my nose up and would eat whatever I was given. It wasn't easy, I have to he honest, especially when you're expected to eat it using its shell as your bowl. I know, you're all laughing at me being squeamish, I just really can't do crabs. At the point where they pointed at the wicker basket on the table and said there were some more live ones in there I nearly threw up, although in my defence I have developed a slight cough and cold, so I'll blame my flimsiness on that.

ANYWAY, we said our goodbyes and made our way to the airport, weighed down with bags of souvenirs and gifts. Go through security check and there's a problem with one of my bags. "sir, you can't take these crabs on the plane, they have to be checked in". Crabs?! What crabs? Oh my god! The live crabs! I'm actually carrying them to Guangzhou for C's mum and dad! And apparently they pose a massive risk to the health and safety of everyone the plane. Especially me. I agree with security, perhaps we should put them into a controlled explosion, just in case? Unfortunately not, C goes and checks them in instead.

And because this is us, travelling in china, while she's on the other side of security, there's an announcement that our flight is delayed. Probably for 2 hours at least. Friends don't let friends take internal flights in china.

Time...passes...

As we sit. One hour into our 2 1/2 hour delay, it strikes me that I could probably live in china but for one thing. The spitting. Now, you probably know spitting. It's disgusting, sometimes people do it. But the Chinese seem to relish spitting with an unhealthy glee. And it's not particularly the spitting that bothers me, it's the preamble, where they seem to seek to gather every scrap of phlegm, spit, mucus and internal organ with the sound of a blunt saw being dragged through slime covered cardboard. This extensive preamble completed, THEN they look for somewhere to gob. Act completed, passers by hold up placards with a score out of ten, and if it's especially spectacular, a local celebrity gives them a signed photo and a medallion.

8.35pm

I know in my universe, it's all about me, but I'm sitting on a plane with maybe 2-300 Chinese people, I saw one other foreigner, yet the in-flight entertainment is showing a UK program about UK speed cameras, albeit with (very small) chinese subtitles. What makes it deliciously ridiculous is that there's maybe one tv per 15-20 people, but the tv I'm supposed to be able to see from my seat hasn't dropped down. So I can't really see or hear it anyway...

Past midnight...

Back home finally in Guangzhou. You know, the Chinese love a bargain, in fact it's practically a crime if you don't get a bargain. Unfortunately, C has committed this sin, by buying a pair of pyjamas for a sinful ¥120, or £12 ish. in fact, they're very nice and unique and it's not a bad price, but she knows if her family find out what she paid she'd get long lectures on the value of money. This so far has led to three looooong interrogations by groups of truth-hungry relatives, while C stoically refuses to reveal the real price. This is hilarious, especially to me, who is largely immune to such pestering due to lack of language ability (unless it's food related in which case 吃多一点.. Which I am powerless to resist...)

Ok bed bed bed! Tomorrow I explore the city alone!

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xiao_liang
November 20, 2010 at 05:58 PM

*spontaneously throws up*

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cinnamonfern
November 14, 2010 at 04:06 PM

Ohhh...I think I'm with you on eating crabs. Of all the things my friends bought for me to try (including bug gelatin and pig's blood), surprisingly it was the WHOLE CRAB that was the hardest to eat. I mean, she was just staring at me and I had to rip her little legs off...and then rip her body in half and eat some of her insides. Gah. :P I did it...but it took me until after dinner was well over and the guys were playing their dice drinking game. My punishment whenever I lost was to work on finishing my crab.

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pretzellogic
November 10, 2010 at 11:03 PM

Why don't you just go ahead and put it in the lesson suggestion thread? I would agree, "throw your hands in the air, and wave 'em like you just don't care" would be a helpful phrase to learn in Chinese :-) Along with other stretching vocabulary, which we could definitely use.

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 10:35 AM

I'm so gutted I didn't get to do this! I'd love it! :-)

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 10:18 AM

I'll second that. Sounds like fun, and also something interesting in that you probably wouldn't strike it in the west [I mean of course individuals are encouraged to do it for long haul flights , but I've not struck it being done as a group thing on the plane..and once again it's that whole group mentality that China has and the west doesn't ..at least not to the degree the Chinese do]. More cultural exploration, hehe.

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bodawei
November 10, 2010 at 09:36 AM

Hey, I don't want to push, but I'm thinking that this routine would be a great lesson, at the Intermediate level. Some body-part-related vocab, action dialogue, something about the philosophy, bit of culture.

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pretzellogic
November 10, 2010 at 09:21 AM

I didn't know that China Southern does the exercises too. There was a period where I was flying to Shenzhen from Lanzhou, and the airline (I think it was Shanghai Airlines, or Hainan Airlines) would invite everyone to do arm raises, hand shaking, hand twirling and various arm stretching execises above your head. A flight attendant would be in the front of the airplane in the aisle, and would get on the intercom to lead about 10 minutes of this. All for a 3+ hour flight. I never did it, because I didn't understand 1 word the flight attendant said, and as an frequent-flying American business traveler, this type of activity is SIMPLY NOT DONE! :-)

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bodawei
November 10, 2010 at 08:38 AM

Australians are not into singing together, except in Qantas advertisements.

Or exercising together, well definitely not like in China.

There was a documentary not too long ago that had (an Australian?) visiting China and on the bus he was expected to sing, and he sang the Chinese national anthem and of course everyone joined in .. or did I dream all that. I remember thinking.. you have just managed a couple of 'ni hao's in two hours of television and suddenly you're singing the Chinese national anthem!?

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 08:29 AM

yeah, I'd love to do that. I also love those movies you see where everyone is singing in the bus. I'd love to join in something like that. Such a shame but you'd just never see that here, and if you tried to start it up everyone would think you're a nutter, hehe. I guess you could do it with a group of mates, but I've never seen it done with strangers.

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bodawei
November 10, 2010 at 08:25 AM

China Southern does the group exercises, I luv em. After the initial embarrassment I always join in. I think they are great on several counts:

- for health reasons this kind of exercise makes flying safer

- you feel great afterwards

- some of them are kind of funny, quite different to exercises we would do in the West

- the community side of it is very cool (practically every single person joins in, it is a kind of leveller, and makes you feel good, simply because you are doing something together)

- it takes your mind off the landing. :)

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 06:20 AM

"Shanghai airlines...group exercises in your seat."

...really? Do they just do domestic flights and are these group exercises even on short haul flights? Pray tell all.

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 06:12 AM

"I always knew crabs were evil"

..hehe, where's our old mate, mickeytoon ? I think he'd have something to say about that!

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xiao_liang
November 09, 2010 at 03:42 PM

China Eastern I think... at least for one of the flights.

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pretzellogic
November 09, 2010 at 03:24 PM

I'm with you on the spitting. The mumbling I was doing in my head about it is now threating to be heard by others as I whisper it. I accidently learned the Chinese equivalent of No F------ Way, and i'm in danger of saying that out loud.

I guess you weren't flying Shanghai airlines, otherwise we'd be hearing about you doing the group exercises in your seat. What airlines were you flying inside China?

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xiao_liang
November 08, 2010 at 03:16 PM

31st October 10.15am

It's Halloween! But not in china, where no-one notices. Actually we did see one shop with Halloween decorations, but it was a posh western designer shop so normal rules don't apply I guess. Today we're off to see a massive temple on Nanjing again with Christine's cousin Zhu Dan and his wife Xiao Lu, who are very nice but too scared to talk to me due to my tragic Chinese. Nanjing doesn't get any less dusty and my throat any less red raw but apparently the tomb of Sun Zhong Shang (Sun Yat Sen) is one of the most beautiful parts of Nanjing so looking forward to it. He's also founder of the national party so it's yay for nationalism today!

My feet, my poor poor beleaguered feet. Lotsa walking today. We climbing the billion or so steps to sun yat sen's tomb, saw his statue and his coffin. Despite warnings in several languages to please not take photos AND security guards screaming at people who looked likely, there were still several determined 阿姨s snapping away, which I thought entirely excellent. What else did we see? SO many things. There's an area in Nanjing set aside as a cultural heritage site with sunyatsen, a Ming dynasty tomb, and several other sites of historical interest. We saw them aaaalllllllll. And mostly by foot. (we also could have gotten 20% off entry if we were a "model of morality", but they wouldn't take my clean medical record as evidence...). Zhu Dan and Xiao Lu came along, which was really nice, since mostly what they did was wait for us outside while we went in and explored.

There's this Chinese thing about paying for stuff. Everyone wants to pay, so if you spend a couple of days together, the guest/host relationship gradually erodes to the point where there's an increasingly desperate scramble at every point to see who can be the first to pay. Zhu Dan and Xiao Lu were past masters at this, and zhu dan wasn't a small guy, so in the end we worked out a game plan where I physically blocked them from getting ahead of us in the queue so C could pay. Xiao Lu accepted it, or seemed to - turns out it was a clever bluff because Zhu Dan had skipped into the next-door line, clever sod. We still won though, but victory was short-lived. Next place we couldn't understand why they'd walked so far ahead until we realised the thing they were heading for was a ticket booth. I'm sure using prior knowledge of the lay of the land is cheating.

I'd been told, or at least understood, that the Chinese didn't eat a lot of bread. Yea? You could have fooled me. There's bread for breakfast, bread for lunch, in an astonishing array of varieties. The couple had brought some lunch with them from a bread shop called "Christine's" which was vaguely amusing. I mentioned this to Zhu Dan and asked if he had an English name. He said he did, and for a moment I couldn't work out what he was saying, until I realised this man has the coolest English name ever created. Put Zhu Dan the other way round and you get Danzhu, which he'd shortened to make Danger. Danger! Best name ever! I'm changing my name, but to make it more realistic, it'll have to be SlightlyThreatening.

We finished our sightseeing tour with a vast Ming dynasty tomb that you approaching along avenues flanked by enormous stone statues of animals and attendants. just before the entrance started was an enormous stone tortoise. That looks interesting, I thought, I'll have a look at this notice, which helpfully has English on it. It said (paraphrased): "this is a big stone tortoise. It is yea big and yea wide. We're not sure what it was for but it's probably something to do with the Ming tomb." I kid you not, the last bit is practically word for word. It was all the more bizarre because not half a mile further on there was a practically-identical creature with a great big stone monolith on its back, and that one had a lengthy description all about it...

The tomb itself had been extensively rebuilt at each stage (it consisted of a series of gates interspersed with long avenues). The gates got increasingly impressive until they became buildings, the first being described as a "sacrificial house". I entered this one with some trepidation... What could be inside such a carefully reconstructed dramatically named building? Turns out it was a gift shop. "hah," I commented, "it'd be hilarious if the final tomb itself was just a gift shop too." this final building, right in front of the hill they think he's under (only THINK, because get this, they're not even sure he's there...), was truly impressive. A massive brick monolithic construction topped by an impressively recreated pavilion. We climbed the outside and entered the echoing hall to find my joke was entirely inappropriate, it didn't contain a gift shop after all. It contained two gift shops.

We finished the day with hot pot with Zhu dan, Xiao Lu and Zhu dan's parents, which was actually really good, my especial favourite being a kind of mini hot dog sausage that when you put it in the hot pot, kind of exploded at one end. Then back to their mildly over-floral flat for tea (tea, tea, always endless cups of tea in the evening! I spend half the night peeing...), wedding photos, more questions about england, english people, me, Christine, life, the universe and everything, and then heavens above, more presents. We went back to Xiao Yi's house and then had... More presents! Now I know why they have those suitcase shops in airports. I could never work out why anyone would want to buy another suitcase AT the airport, but it's to bring back all the presents from really lovely new family. Must be...

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xiao_liang
November 10, 2010 at 10:33 AM

Respect for the dead for sure. It's weird, because photos were only banned at the outer chamber, which was his statue. The inner chamber with the actual sarcophagus was a photo-frenzy.

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bababardwan
November 10, 2010 at 05:56 AM

"warnings in several languages to please not take photos AND security guards"

..do you reckon this is some sort of security concern, a respect for the dead thing, or something else?

"Danger" and "Slightly Threatening"...hahaha

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xiao_liang
November 09, 2010 at 09:58 AM

@zhenlijiang I have literally no idea! Does anyone?!

@paulinurus Wait until you see how many bags we came back with :-p

Yes, I crossed the streets of course! And it was fine, at least, no-one ran me over. I particularly liked the pedestrian crossings, with the little traffic policemen blowing their whistles like it was the end of the world, and everyone blatantly ignoring them.

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paulinurus
November 09, 2010 at 03:04 AM

Wife and I went with two pieces of luggage and came back with four. Thank goodness luggage allowance for NA is two pieces x 23kg (50 lb) for each passenger.

p.s did you cross the streets in the cities? How was it?

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zhenlijiang
November 09, 2010 at 12:51 AM

Hey what's a "model of morality"? You get certified as one and issued an ID?

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 07:51 PM

30th October 11pm

1st full day in nanjing. It's already late so might be short! Nanjing is a city of contrasts. In some ways it has some parts of unspeakable beauty - we visited an ancient garden house with courtyard after courtyard of delightfully arranged plants, lakes and rocks, and a vast imperial lake park which stretched on for miles. But the city itself is just plain ugly in many many ways. It made me realise how much effort has gone into tarting up Shanghai (for the expo) and guangzhou (for the Asian games). Nanjing will have its turn, it is hosting the youth olympic games in 2014, but right now it is wall to wall building sites. The air is so thick with dust I was convinced I was getting a cold until I realised what it was, I'm coughing like I smoke 40 a day. Beggars throng on the streets, and for the first time I've seen graffiti covering walls (weirdly, in English, which apparently is easier to paint).

That aside, we've had a nice day. It's starting to wear a bit on Christine and me both having to constantly translate and be left out of most conversations respectively, but we're doing the best we can and at least it gives me listening practice! We visited christine's grandad's tomb this morning. It was in a large cemetery on a hill facing east. It was very peaceful, separated into grades for how important you were (or I guess how much money your relatives could afford). Grandad was in a military section separated by rank, row upon row of black tombs wreathed in flowers left by relatives and decorated with names and pictures. Those entombed were in red, and if they were to share a tomb with a still-living spouse, their name was already there in gold. An attendant cleaned the tomb, Xiao Yi (Christine's aunt) added fresh flowers and we set light to some incense, bowed three times, and set it to burn in front of the tomb. It was quite moving, and I was moved nearly to tears by the words written on the back of the tombstone. You wouldn't mind being interred there, although I bet the ancestors at the top of the hill would be right snobs about their elevated position...

After walking around the cemetery we headed for the metro and bid goodbye to Xiao Yi on an Insanely crowded train. The metro in Nanjing is by far the most foreigner friendly I've been on, with English announcements and everything, but by god it's crowded, so many people it's crazy, and there's always some group of nutters with bags the size of houses by the door. We went to a touristy place and stopped in at the house I mentioned above, and met up with Christine's cousin outside. His wife joined us later and we spent most of the day together although my Chinese unfortunately wasn't up to any proper conversation. We walked round the park, took a paddle boat on the lake which stubbornly refused to go left, so we ended up going in stately circles right again and again as other boats knocked us off course again and again (with a cry of  "laowai!" if there was a kid on board).

Big dinner in the evening with the rest of the family (who are lovely, by the way, friendly, genuine and welcoming. Although seriously, how many times? I do not, NOT, I mean it, I really don't look anything like David Beckham, despite this constant insistence). Everyone keeps urging me to come back again, I really REALLY need to practice my Chinese if that's ever going to happen. Unless people actually like someone sitting quietly like a plonker while their girlfriend is forced to answer questions about them.

Full beyond belief yet again, we strolled, well, waddled with cousin and wife downtown to an underground mall right out of blade runner. I'm not kidding, if a bunch of replicants had run past me, I wouldn't have batted an eyelid. Fashionable desperately young crowds of Chinese kids pushed past us as we embarked on the very serious mission of finding Christine some fake uggs that didn't totally suck. Our game plan basically consisted of making sure no-one saw me, due to my newly discovered price-inflating superpower. This meant a lot of hanging around outside and inside shops on my own pretending I'm invisible, which isn't terribly easy when every second person stares at you like someone that's just seen a flying saucer. To be honest I like the attention, since I'm hugely self-centred, but I imagine it might wear on you after a while. Down these neon corridors was stare-central, which gave me a good giggle, although since I think I was maybe 10 years older than the average age down there I did feel just a leeeeetle bit awkward. (be cool man! Be cool! Ok, stand like a cool person. No, god no, now you're standing like your dad, oh god, I give up...).

Aaaaaanyway, long story short, found the boots, tried them on in a hundred million shops, stood around grinning at strangers, bought the boots, said goodbye, staggered home. It's not funny or interesting, but gimme a break, it's 11.30pm and I've eaten enough food for three elephants (多吃一点!), shower bed! That's a shower followed by bed,  not some weird combination. Oh, here's a thing, our bed has no mattress. Really. No mattress at all, just a heavy double quilt on wood. It's not too bad if you don't turn over too much, but who doesn't have a mattress?! I'll tell you who, we don't, that's who. Night night!

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zhenlijiang
November 10, 2010 at 05:37 AM

Where do I say that beauty is just an emotional response?

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bodawei
November 10, 2010 at 05:24 AM

Hi Zhen_lijiang

There have been countless attempts to systematize beauty down the ages (eg. the Golden Mean) so it is not obvious that beauty is just an emotional response.

'The Western perception of beauty' - I think I was still talking about an emotional response here, tempered perhaps by some education about what is beautiful and what is not. We can't avoid socialization, including concepts of beauty - the media tells us every day what is beautiful and what is not. It sinks in.

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paulinurus
November 09, 2010 at 02:25 AM

Zhen,

He,he... interesting that I've had observations similar to yours, only difference being you've made it known. I guess I should've when a grandmother who posted her impression of the traffic in China and that she felt unsafe to bring her grand daughter along was challenged with statistcs thrown at her and the post ended with 'hope I've helped'.

Look at the response to Evelyne

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zhenlijiang
November 09, 2010 at 12:30 AM

Bodawei, you suggest, that perceptions of beauty are mainly emotional ... uh OK. Well I see that is the one sentence I should not have edited out from my long comment, so obvious I thought it was (I'm don't want to argue here about this obviousness. But part of the problem is a statement like The Western perception of beauty is challenged in China, no question. only raises all those questions I had, I have no idea where something like that comes from.). How would one's perception of beauty not be emotional, I had said.

Again, Xiao Liang's writing a diary here, not an essay. Yes maybe you got carried away.

I never thought you were defending ugliness, don't know where you get that from. I read your comment and got the impression you were questioning another's perception of beautiful/ugly, and wondered what authority of that you are. I didn't of course realize that you were asking (what I thought were strange) questions as a student.

Obviously I misunderstood your questions, and apologize for subjecting you and this thread to a long response that missed your point. Of course I will be even more careful in the future. Could happen again though.

I don't know how to make myself shorter. I always do try to be briefer.

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xiao_liang
November 08, 2010 at 02:57 PM

And I should say, I didn't get anything negative from your post at all! Actually I really appreciate how you've clearly read my (largely nonsensical!) stuff and found it interesting enough to comment on!

I know that building sites can be beautiful. For example, here's a picture of an insane one we found in Hong Kong, it had well over 100 cranes just on one site:

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The Nanjing building sites were just wall-to-wall dust though. Not great.

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bodawei
November 08, 2010 at 02:42 PM

Hi Zhenlijiang

Starting this again - the site is doing that old trick of deleting your post as you write. Try to be shorter. I am not being in any way critical of xial_liang's impressions - I suggest that perceptions of beauty are mainly emotional (I guess that could be taken as analytical). I get a bit carried away with my interests - I try to be a student of such things. (I have collected a few books in recent times on the 'image of the city' to borrow a phrase from one of the writers.) And I have my own views but I thought I was keeping them to myself. I wasn't defending ugliness in the Chinese city (although I do happen to enjoy Nanjing.)

Building sites - I like them; everything can have its own beauty. I am taking lots of photos of the latest campus that I teach in. Fascinating how quickly China does its 'landscaping' - they believe in instant trees, and everything is done in large volume and scale.

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zhenlijiang
November 08, 2010 at 11:45 AM

Mmm Bodawei, XiaoLiang would probably prefer that I didn't--but really. He should give you his analysis for just plain ugly in many many ways? You're inviting him to reflect a bit and be more specific about which parts he found ugly and that's all right I guess, particularly if you're his teacher. But he has already qualified, limited the application of "ugly". Was it not enough for you? And yes he's publishing it here, but remember, this impression he had of a city he's visiting for the first time is an entry in a traveler's diary.

You often seem to just shoot down impressions--those don't agree with you--when they're voiced by most other people. I disagree with being so dismissive of impressions. And this time it isn't about data or the facts. Impressions are revealing and significant. Each one we have adds to our ever-changing perspective on ourselves and on the rest of the world. Sharing those, and jumping to conclusions or wildly spreading negative pictures of China is entirely different.

I know what I think of as ugliness when I see it, and many many parts of Japan, even in my hometown, are plain ugly. Stating that does not make me or anyone else anti-Japan, but I am critical of bad (absent) urban planning and lack of initiatives that could reduce ugliness and make people living in this city happier, because that ugliness is all our doing, mostly manifestations of selfishness and greed, lack of will, lack of sense of community. If and when I find anything outside of Japan that doesn't please my sense of beauty that does not mean I am looking down on that country or the culture there, though I may be critical in the same way I would be in Japan. When I visited Prague I found parts of it beautiful, parts of it just plain ugly. I think I can see why the ugliness that I saw happened. I don't look down on the Czech people for it. I am not a Westerner. It's possible my (Japanese) perception of beauty has been American(?)-informed to some extent. I do not think the Czech Republic--or Japan, or the U.S., or China--challenges it.

You don't have to agree with someone on what is beautiful/ugly, but why should they be required to rationalize their perception for you, or apologize if it is indeed an emotional response? My perception of beauty is personal to me. Isn't yours personal to you?

You don't want to tell us how to think here do you?

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xiao_liang
November 08, 2010 at 08:27 AM

You think building sites are pretty? :-) There are big areas of Nanjing right now where you literally can't see anything but building sites.

No, we didn't go through the tunnel - didn't have enough time in Shanghai. (And I LOVE bladerunner...)

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bodawei
November 07, 2010 at 11:30 PM

That 'wood' - that's the mattress. :)

It's always fun watching a foreigner sit on a Chinese bed for the first time, specially if they're tired and 'collapse' on to the bed, and then spring up saying 'my God - there's no mattress!' xiao_liang, there was a lesson on this not too long ago wasn't there? Also in Summer people sometimes lay a kind of bamboo mat on the bed to sleep on (makes it cooler but even harder).

Nanjing is 'plain ugly in many ways' - I take it from your next comment that you think this is because of the many building sites. The Western perception of beauty is challenged in China, no question. I wonder if the perception is largely emotional? I mean if you don't like something, or if you find it alien (vastly different to home) it is likely to come out as a perception of ugliness. (You mentioned Bladerunner.) Actually, in Shanghai did you happen to go/ride in the 'chamber of horrors' that goes under the Huangpu River?

Anyway, thanks again for your diary - excellent stuff.

And you don't study Chinese in order to come back to China, you come back to China in order to learn Chinese. Really, time in the country is like an accelerated course (you realise when you get home, on reflection.)

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pretzellogic
November 07, 2010 at 10:01 PM

No mattress? Stop whining, you're in China with C!! :-)

Your description of seeing C's granddad's tomb was cool. It's another reminder to me that it would be helpful if we had a cpod lesson on funerals. Yes there was a tomb sweeping day lesson, but I do mean a lesson on (Chinese) funerals.

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 10:26 AM

29th october 3.30pm ishIn an apparent mission to take every form of Chinese transport possible, we're now waiting in 上海 火车站 (shanghai train station) for the bullet train to go to Nanjing. Of course, we're not on time, this being us, but at least this time we're horrifically early rather than late. We were in such a hurry to get back to the hotel to meet our gangster driver (who for some reason thought the train station was in the airport and would take an hour and a half to get to, in fact it was in the train station (who'd have though it) and took 20 minutes), we didn't have time to get a proper lunch so grabbed some 小笼包 (xiaolongbao) from a street stall and ate them in front of the station. Dirty dirty delicious street food. I'm slightly in love with dirty street food. Maybe it goes with my adoration for grimy alleyways thronged with people but this morning got off to a proper start with home-made thick noodles with beef and too much coriander in a big bowl eaten down one of said grimy alleyways in shanghai. Breakfast for 60p? Don't mind if I do!

Then we set off to finally visit chinesepod, since we'd so magnanimously failed to turn up yesterday. We had simple directions to follow, we had plenty of time, what could possibly go wrong? If you've read this far you'll probably have guessed: at least something had to, right? We took the metro to the correct station, so far so good, and opted to get a taxi rather than walk for 15-20 minutes to their offices. Seems simple: give the guy the road name (he looks confused) say it again twice, then have C say it properly (wan not wang!) and off we go, number 2524... Oh, we're here, he says it's a very short road though, and we're at number 800... After walking for 15 minutes we realise we're still only at number 1000... Short road my arse, it's enormous and we're at the wrong end, standing between a building site and a line of shops selling knackered looking vegetables, not exactly the route we planned. Still, not to be deterred, I forge onwards, dragging the very displeased and long-suffering C behind me. Thank god a taxi came by, otherwise I might not be alive to type this, but we eventually made it and met Sarah, Jason, Catherine etc etc (although not John and Jenny who were off being famous somewhere ;-) ) who showed us their lovely offices, made a fuss of me, and even let us record a little bit where I jabbered incessantly about nothing and C hid in a corner and pretended she couldn't talk. Only one slightly embarrassing moment when Jason introduced me to master linguists Connie and JiaoJie by referencing my avatar on the website, a cute chinese kid. I misheard and thought he was talking about my children and thereby forced them all to look at pictures of my kids, which they then pretended to be interested in, bless them.

This done, we had a rather less stressful trip to jing'an temple, which was small but magnificent. Slightly strange to see so many chinese people praying, although at the rate they were donating money, I'm starting a buddhist temple tomorrow. Does anyone have a 20 foot jade statue of the Buddha and enough incense to burn down the new forest please?We hopped over to "the bund" by taxi, which is a strip by the river flanked by historic European style grand buildings and with a great view of the eye catching skyscrapers on the other side. We bought a cheesy tourist photo of ourselves in a nice frame (a punishing ¥10 or £1 to you and me) then set off back to the hotel to meet the driver. On the way we passed a group of highly excitable schoolchildren who had spotted an older white couple. "hello! Hello!" they shrieked, "我们是中国人!" (we are chinese), then one particularly precocious young girl yelled "I like sex!" which was lost on the couple, who I think were from Europe and therefore had no idea what the little sods were on about. We crossed the road just as they spotted me, so I missed my chance to be offered sex by a ten year old. Which I can't help feeling is very much a good thing.

So at last we're on the train, which isn't a bullet train after all, but the other one which is even faster. The little display reads "245km/h" which is slightly terrifying and while C dozes next to me (and a burly photographer guy listens to loud Cantonese pop songs in his headphones on the other side), I watch the countryside zip past. It changes so fast, but I couldn't help noticing how it's all so grey and dingy, is this the legendary smog i've heard so much about? C stirs briefly and points out that a) I'm an idiot and b) the window is very dirty. She's right on both counts.

You know, the chinese are very good at a lot of things, but one of them is definitely not queuing. The British have developed queuing into a fine art form, with its own rules and unspoken regulations, i believe it's been developed as the newest sport for the 2012 olympics in london. The main rule in a Chinese "queue" seems to be how sharp your elbows are and the main nuance is how hard you can jab them into soft places. I'm rather ashamed at how good I've become at this, largely because I'm at least a foot taller than most Chinese people. Queuing for the train turned into an insanely unruly scrum through the ticket barriers and when the lady in front's ticket stuck in the barrier, all hell broke loose. The old ladies behind me saw their chance and made a break for front of the line next to us, ploughing through the thronging crowds, razor-sharp elbows making short work of the poor unfortunates caught between them and their comfy seats on the waiting train. And I, I dear reader, I did not stand there and take this unjustified pushing in lying down, oh no. I burst into action - no-one was pushing in front of me, old lady or not. They fell before my might like blades of grass before the scythe and I reached the gate triumphant. With the cries of the dead and wounded ringing like clarion calls of triumph in my ears, I plopped my card into the gate, and proceeded onwards like a Phoenix ascendent. Only as I sat on the train did I realise I'd just shoved my way brutally past a bunch of poor old ladies, and felt like something of a cad. China has ruined me, and that's for sure.

We reached Nanjing astonishingly without incident, and aside from being able to thoroughly confirm C's assertion that Nanjing has the prettiest girls of everywhere we've visited so far (and then some), and a taxi hitting a scooter whilst we were waiting at a road junction (non fatally) we reached C's 奶奶's house in time for dinner, which was very lovely, even if I seem to have gotten worse at Chinese as I've got further north and have failed to understand pretty much anything anyone has said to me so far.Right now we're sitting watching a truly dreadful soap opera about the life of Mao tse tong's son (yes really) in which everyone seems to be very happy indeed and having a lovely time listening to how absolutely super chairman Mao is. For 30 episodes. I asked christine's grandma if the Chinese people like Mao, and got an enthusiastic nod. Apparently his son is also a "really good man", although if this is a faithful depiction, he was a bloody terrible actor.

Tomorrow we visit 爷爷's tomb and explore Nanjing a bit. Looking forward to it, although there has been some mention of duck's blood soup, Which is mildly perturbing...

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 05:32 PM

She probably doesn't...

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pretzellogic
November 07, 2010 at 05:20 PM

actually, I thought that she might have said that she didn't want pix of her on websites! I'd better be more careful of what I ask for :-)

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 04:33 PM

Naturally I have about a million :-p Just not in Cpod, where she was mostly hiding, or taking the pictures...

But since you ask ;-) Here's one from Nanjing at the top of the Sun Yat Sen memorial:

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pretzellogic
November 07, 2010 at 01:40 PM

No photos of C anywhere?

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cinnamonfern
November 07, 2010 at 01:21 PM

You took the bullet train! I'm so jealous! I bought my ticket from Hangzhou to Beijing the day before I wanted to leave (big mistake). So I had two choices, buy the high-speed ticket for over 800RMB (I may be western, but I am also still in graduate school and cheap) or take the slow hard seat for about 120RMB. Did I mention it left at 11pm and didn't arrive until after 2pm the next day? An adventure, but exhausting!

Ha ha - they totally air that soap opera here in Hong Kong on CCTV1. The first time I saw it, I thought I had to be misunderstanding - but no, it really is a soap opera about Mao's son.

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bodawei
November 07, 2010 at 11:43 AM

Nice photos, thanks xiao_liang

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bababardwan
November 07, 2010 at 11:43 AM

Cool, thanks heaps for the photos mate. :)

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 11:18 AM

And here's the photos from the chinesepod visit as promised! Everyone spectacularly manages to blink or be out of focus in every photo...

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Left to right Rob, Sarah, Me

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Wanted for coughing: Liliana. $1,000,000 reward

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LTR: Rob, Catherine, Sarah, Me, Jason

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Obligatory photo with mics covering faces...

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David gives the thumbs up

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Jason and John B

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xiao_liang
November 06, 2010 at 06:39 PM

28th October 1.50pm

I'm on a flight from Guangzhou to shanghai, 45 minutes delayed. Unfortunately fell asleep when they were handing out the food while we waited to take off and had to make do with a cup of orange juice. Very filling. It's kind of ok though because with some foresight, we stopped and ate in the airport branch of "kungfu", the Bruce lee branded fast food chain which is perplexingly popular and omnipresent, at least in Guangzhou. I really should have listened to C's dire warnings, as it was pretty bad, my dish prepared apparently by taking a half starved chicken, removing any good bits like breasts or legs, chopping the rest into unidentifiable small pieces bones intact, putting them into an oily broth, then pretending it's food. Hmmmn, tasty. However, I'm not dead, and there was rice so onwards to yet more victory! (probably).

We were listening to the in-flight announcements (effectively, we're delayed. A lot. Tough) when they switched languages. "is that cantonese?" I asked before we realised they were attempting to repeat them in a deliciously mangled English for the benefit of me and the other 3 foreigners on the plane. I'm aware there's some irony in me laughing at someone's language ability given my lack of Chinese but you've got to get your kicks somewhere.

00.36

End of a long day, C's birthday! Picking up where left off, we FINALLY got off our heavily delayed plane ( nearly 2 hours in the end!) to the sound of 100 phones being turned on in defiance of the increasingly desperate requests over the PA to please for the love of god not turn on your phone yet. A short bus ride to the terminal later and there's a commotion. Having been watching a Kung Fu movie on the flight (with no sound and Chinese subtitles that I couldn't read), for a moment the fragile barriers between fantasy and reality in my mind threatened to crumble because there was a full fledged fight next to the toilets! Two guys were pummelling another guy while various people circled them futilely trying to break it up. Lots of yelling later it turns out the fella had committed the unforgivable sin of pushing in front of the queue for the toilet, thereby apparently warranting a short sharp lesson in fisticuffs. Which just goes to show, never stand between a Chinese man and the loo when he's been delayed for 120 minutes or heaven have mercy...

Chuckling to ourselves over this mini drama, we hurriedly made our way to the luggage belt. The delay to the flight had been truly unfortunate as there were not one, but two people waiting for us in different locations in shanghai. C's dad had called in some family favours and not only was there a driver waiting to take us to the hotel, but her dad's cousin's husband was waiting AT the hotel with gifts and tickets to the shanghai world expo. Keeping them waiting so long is NOT good face and C was getting a bit frantic, as her phone went again and again and again with people wondering exactly where exactly we were.

So just the suitcase to get, we wait expectantly at the very beginning of the conveyer belt. And wait. And wait. No luggage. Nil luggage. Luggage not here. Lots of fast Chinese and several forms later we learn it's coming on the next flight, and will arrive later that night. Oh gee thanks guys.

We eventually meet the driver, who looks like a somewhat terrifying gangster, an impression not ameliorated when it turns out the car that has been sent for us is unbelievably luxurious. It's the sort of ride where each SEAT has individual climate control and televisions, and C has to tell me to stop opening compartments and poking things, because I'm acting like someone from the countryside (which is a deadly insult, let me tell you). It turns out that this cousin's husband's third nephew's babysitter's sister is something of a big deal, and I start getting nervous again.

 Shanghai is like manhattan on LSD (probably, I've never been to manhattan, but I watch films, so that's ok). Hundreds of skyscrapers compete for space in a crowded skyline, each attempting to be more impressive and elaborate than the next. If Guangzhou is a nicely turned out but laid back dude having a gentle walk in the park, shanghai is a boastful showoff, hair slicked back with a diamond earring in each ear.

We bid our gangs... I mean driver goodbye and head into the hotel. The bother's neighbour's donkey's half sister's nephew's aunt has had to go to a business dinner, leaving behind the expo tickets and some gifts (more gifts!), but we have to meet  him for breakfast tomorrow at 8am. After ANOTHER minor misadventure whereby we fail to operate the lift whatsoever,  finally work it out and then go to completely the wrong floor and room, leading to a very confusing conversation with a man we unnecessarily disturbed, we eventually find our highly luxurious room (well; it is her birthday), and go for a very nice Japanese noodle dinner round the corner.

Any plans we might have had to visit the nice folks at chinesepod are right out of the window, because C's dad is very very keen indeed that we visit the shanghai world expo, so visit the shanghai world expo we will, like it or not (hint: not).

Omg1.15am. More tomorrow!

It's tomorrow! Early early start to meet mr bigshot, who turns out to be very nice, and speaks immaculate English, despite having last spoken it in 1993 when he studied in England. He's evidently a very important man. I'm not sure exactly what that means, and I don't ask, I'm apparently becoming Chinese.

Ok, the expo! The expo is small, understated, there are only a few people there and lit by only occasional lanterns. ...

Ok, not really, it's massive, flamboyant, hugely crowded and a vibrant testament to the Chinese obsession with neon. There is a pavilion for every country containing a little exhibition about that country. It has been legendarily overcrowded, and although we're not shoulder to shoulder with people in the main concourse, there are indeed a LOT of people. We quickly work out that the pavilions you can get into aren't in fact worth going in. We briefly visit Portugal (just a gift shop) and  Belarus (a room with a video of women in a field eating cake), before realising that in the time we have left before it closes we basically can choose and queue for one popular pavilion. So we're in china right? Here on holiday to get as far away from home as possible, so what pavilion do we go for? The uk one of course! Queues at peak times apparently have run up to four hours for this pavilion, being one of the more popular ones, so after 40 minutes of waiting and shuffling and waiting and shuffling, our expectations are high. (afternote: we later found out I could have just shown my uk passport and got in straight away. Typical!). The uk pavilion turns out to be a room with a thousand plastic cylinders containing different types of seed (why?!) and a short exhibition about how the uk is the most environmentally friendly country in the world (err...) and the different herbs we use to cure common ailments - e.g. lavender, used to cure headaches (what?!!). And that was our expo experience. Feet aching, chuckling away like two lunatics, we skipped to the bus stop (why not, everyone was already staring after all), and several insanely crowded buses (where I learned there's nothing quite as piercing to the eardrums as an angry shanghainese woman on the phone), a couple of metros and a taxi later, we collapsed in bed.

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xiao_liang
November 08, 2010 at 03:02 PM

Seriously, it's awful. You'll regret it!

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pretzellogic
November 08, 2010 at 02:26 PM

i've never even heard of the "kungfu" restaurant chain. I guess i'm not as worldly as I thought.

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bababardwan
November 08, 2010 at 01:59 PM

""kungfu", the Bruce lee branded fast food chain which is perplexingly popular"

...perplexingly ? I'd have to try it at least once, hehe [and I'm guessing I'm not alone..at least not this time, hehe]. The power of good marketing over the quality of the product. Another useful tidbit amongst the fine entertainment in your posts. I'll be sure to look out for it when I one day get there.

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xiao_liang
November 07, 2010 at 10:19 AM

Hah, possibly! Perhaps it's just because it has to be crushed into a more compact space. There are some small parts of Hong Kong that are just like London, but the rest of it not at all. The weirdest thing is how thin the skyscrapers are...

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bodawei
November 07, 2010 at 03:08 AM

hey xiao_liang

Thanks for your diary - it's been great; sounds such fun. Come again!

Just listened to your cameo appearance at ChinesePod - that was cool too. Difficulty finding something is part of China; I'm glad ChinesePod is authentic in this respect. PS: I bet that girlfriend of yours has a lot to say off-air!

On city comparisons - I have the same feeling about HK and Shanghai - SH is more like HK than other Chinese cities. The pace, the volume of commerce, the extent of foreign influence - but there are also differences. HK is so orderly by comparison - the British influence?

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xiao_liang
November 06, 2010 at 11:02 PM

Nah, I grew up in London, they're very different cities to my mind. Just the sheer number of skyscrapers is different, not to mention the style of buildings, the... everything! Heh. I thought Hong Kong was quite similar to Shanghai though. Just less spread out.

Mind you, I haven't been to Beijing...

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pretzellogic
November 06, 2010 at 10:07 PM

no one bothers to tell you that you don't have to queue for your home country pavillion? Interesting.

Actually, I thought Shanghai was London with tall buildings but no Queen. Beijing is more Manhattan without ethnic neighborhoods.

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xiao_liang
November 06, 2010 at 08:51 AM

27th October 9pm 

 

So I'm sitting in an ultra-futuristic styled "french" restaurant while a lounge singer sings "the girl from ipanema " and we pay £13 a course for what is effectively steak and chips. That being the thinnest steak known to man and 8 chips. Hello posh dining chinese style! Oh also one mushroom and half a tomato. One of the girls we are with ordered the exotic hard-to-get delicacy spaghetti bolognaise, the other had an enormous plate of lobster spaghetti, that being a lobster. with spaghetti. Did I mention the price? (skip forward a bit - the cabaret singer did give me a cheeky wink and a rather limp wristed wave as we left, it's the little things in life that make a difference eh?)

 

It's been an interesting day. We spent the morning wandering through antique markets with C's dad while he haggled, scoffed and laid down 40 years of acquired experience on everything from jade to pottery. Turns out jade is expensive . And when I say expensive I mean thousands of pounds for tiny slivers if they happen to be a certain colour. It was lovely to see him in his element though, particularly when the stall owners tried to inflate prices just because I'm behind him. 

 

We had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, which is vaguely amusing given I gave up vegetarianism. Turns out it was the right decision as the food was the worst I'd tasted here, and it didn't even have tentacles. There were two monks being treated to dinner next door though, and an old lady tottered over smiling at me, then realising she had nothing actually to say, pointed at a random dish on the table and said "ah, that dish!" in Cantonese then wandered off. 

 

Oh and then we went for a massage, or extended session of extreme pain, as I've fondly termed it. The last massage we had was on holiday in Bali, and was administered by a beautiful young girl with all sorts of scented wossnames (but no funny business). I was mildly perturbed when a stocky man walked through the door, which was justified as it turned out he was in possession of a couple of blocks of steel where his thumbs should have been and proceeded (giggling when I hollered in agony, I hasten to point out) to ram his steel digits into my shoulders with gay abandon. As he finished he commented through the universal translator that I like to call my lovely girlfriend that I have a lot of "hot qi" and this has manifested in red dots all over my back. No you evil swine, that's blood that you've drawn from my arteries through the application of pressure! It's fine, we bonded over the foot massage later, and he even asked to swap qq numbers, which would be lovely except for the fact that I don't use qq, the chinese msn, due to it being filled with nutters.

 

Oh, you might be tired after the massage, he warned. Wise words, as I nearly fell off the sofa dozing in a hairdresser round the corner waiting for C to have her hair washed, a process which in china apparently takes nearly an hour. In fact I'm slightly dozy now, writing this in a taxi on the way home ("only women and children allowed in the front!" - 2 guesses where I am). Tomorrow shanghai! Night night!

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bababardwan
November 08, 2010 at 10:22 PM

yeah I've heard of those cages and thought it might be something along those lines. I guess they haven't heard of our orangina then.

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xiao_liang
November 08, 2010 at 03:04 PM

The problem is that most of the people on QQ are bored, or NEETs, or scammers/virus people. When I signed up a couple of years ago, it added you to the search thing, so you got hundreds of people genuinely interested in talking to you, but I signed up again recently, and didn't get added to the search engine, so I got no friend requests at all, apart from someone trying to send me a virus...

With the taxis, apparently in GZ there was a problem a few years ago where a lot of taxi drivers got attacked. So now there are steel cages in every taxi protecting them, and supposedly only women and children allowed in the front...

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bababardwan
November 08, 2010 at 01:52 PM

"ram his steel digits into my shoulders with gay abandon"

..hehe

"don't use qq, the chinese msn, due to it being filled with nutters"

..really? what kind? [..or do you just mean your plagued with requests for language exchange or something?]

"taxi on the way home ("only women and children allowed in the front!" "

..I wonder if it's because they feel more threatened by a male in the front. Maybe they're scarred by bodawei's runner , hehe :)

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pretzellogic
November 06, 2010 at 06:32 PM

Travel is surreal. You'll be in Birmingham, and you'll have the memories of HK, Shanghai, and it will be like you never left England. Or maybe that's just me.

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xiao_liang
November 06, 2010 at 05:58 PM

Even worse, I'm back home in England! Just said goodbye to her and drove 3 hours home to birmingham. Not quite sure how I feel right now (apart from hungry with an empty fridge). Although I did write an entry on the plane so you can probably read that in a bit!

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pretzellogic
November 06, 2010 at 02:55 PM

At this point, you're waxing nostalgic about the entire trip on good ol Air New Zealand flight 39. What do you miss? What surprised you? What was what you expected? Is this what you thought adulthood would be?

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xiao_liang
November 04, 2010 at 10:47 PM

26th October 11pm

Whatta long day. Left this morning to see the oldest manor house in Guangzhou. One more ludicrously crowded subway journey, in which an old man grinned toothlessly at me and said "very tall!" to me in Cantonese, which I didn't understand but thankfully a smile and a nod sufficed, and where C proved herself to be truly Anglicised by uttering a very loud swearword as someone nearly ran her over with a trolley, then realising with a start that her natural language for swearing was English! (note to any parents reading: naturally, I've entirely made this up. C doesn't ever swear and is always polite and proper. And I haven't added this to stop her killing me (without swearing)). The manor house itself was luscious and elaborate, like the huge palace in "crouching tiger...". It wasn't massively expensive ( for china ) to get into, and had a little history explained in it, but was mostly given over to a 'museum of cultural arts and crafts', which loosely translated reads "lots of different ways to sell you stuff". Here is some beautiful extraordinary ivory and bone carving. Oh, would you like to buy some? ah, here is a man painting on the inside of glass bottles, they are all for sale! Here is the incredible Guangzhou traditional embroidery paintings, buy three! So eventually, sufficiently lighter in the wallet area and weighed down by souvenirs we probably didn't want, we walked back through the excellent side streets which teetered and tottered around us in dilapidated fabulousness. "I could so live in one of these" I commented, to a look of mild horror from C. "Ahh, but no broadband... Maybe not," I said, three seconds before passing a bright blue box bolted to one of the ancient walls marked "great wall broadband network".

We then wandered off to find a local market that tourists don't know about, and found it down another one of GZ's brilliant side streets. 100 or more separate stalls selling jade in various forms including the extraordinary solid bracelets that I know My daughter would simply die to own, the only problem being we have no idea of their real value. I am totally a liability here, as everyone knows white people have LOADS of money to splash around with gay abandon. Eventually we ask one stall owner how much for one and he takes a good look at my big white face before declaring "200块 which is about £20. We have no idea if this is right, or if it's even jade at all, before beating a hasty retreat. The next person we ask declares they are 1000 块 and now we're throughly confused and leave before we're either ripped off, get the deal of the century, or possibly buy a piece of plastic for £100.

Next, shopping. Shopping, shopping shopping shopping and more shopping. I live in Birmingham; which is the second biggest city in England. We have one big shopping mall in the centre of town. lGuangzhou is the third biggest city in china, I've been in at least 6 malls, all of which had about 8 floors and went on for miles. This place is huuuuuuuge! Surprisingly, for big brands, prices aren't so different from the uk, But if you buy Chinese brands, or visit outlet stores, prices start to plummet. And food! Food is so ludicrously cheap in the places locals go I couldn't believe my eyes! A full meal for 7 快! That's 70p! Mind you, we went for an ice cream in a Hagen Dazs shop and it cost me nearly £10 so horses for courses eh.

Aaaand then some more stuff happened, oh we met a schoolfriend of C's for dinner who is now a high flying lawyer and took us to a posh restaurant for dinner. If there is a boyfriend olympics, I am winning, because I ate chicken feet, eel and clams and didn't bat an eyelid (remember until a few months ago I was a vegetarian), and frankly I'm getting awesome at not looking too closely. (If I'm truly honest it was very tasty and I'm getting used to the texture, but don't tell anyone, it's our secret ok?). We also went to an arcade and spent too much money for me to fail to win anything for both girls beyond a couple of teddy bears which was vaguely embarrassing, although bizarrely, in china, the land of the cheapest manufacturing known to man, the teddy bears turned out to be imported from denmark...

We return home at last and after a short chat, dad pulls over a huge pile of boxes and everyone is looking at me. With a sense of foreboding I realise that this is MORE presents for me, I literally have no idea what to say... Fountain pens, a bottle of cognac, a watch (and one for my brother), bamboo scrolls with Sun zi's masterwork written on them, crystal penpots... I am a little close to tears, how can I possibly deserve this?! I want to explain to him that I feel utterly bewildered that his wonderful daughter will even look at me twice, never mind walk around holding my hand, having her in my life is more reward than I even could have wished for. But his wife leans over grinning and conspiratorially in English says, "he likes you very much", and there's nothing I can say.

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xiao_liang
November 06, 2010 at 07:43 AM

I often feel that way when I see artists selling things like that. As someone who likes to paint (badly), it always gives me a strange feeling when I see someone so much more talented than me selling their work for tuppence. On the one hand they're making a living out of their work, which is great, on the other hand, they're selling something beautiful for so little...

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bodawei
November 05, 2010 at 12:32 PM

'man painting on the inside of glass bottles, they are all for sale!'

This work is highly skilled yet you see these people working as lowly hawkers. I was with someone once watching a guy work on the inside of a bottle - she asked how much, the guy replied and someone in the crowd made a joke about foreigner prices. The artist replied 'she can afford it'. My friend launched an onslaught, lecturing him loudly about over-charging foreigners who work in the country (dragged a crowd). The mood turned and someone pushed the artist in the chest. I felt kind of sorry for him in the end.

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zhenlijiang
November 05, 2010 at 12:22 AM

(^◇^)

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bababardwan
November 05, 2010 at 12:16 AM

funny followed by a touching finish. I think C is also lucky to have snagged a snag. Don't change :)

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cinnamonfern
November 02, 2010 at 02:06 PM

Wow - you are hilarious.  I love reading your posts.

We amazingly both flew into Hong Kong on the same day. Your typhoon worries were completely unfounded though. Not a high wind or storm cloud in sight on the 22nd or 23rd.

And didn't you know that big noses are considered extremely handsome in China?  No, seriously - as long as it is long and straight. A Chinese-Malaysian friend of mine amused himself by constantly commenting on my other American friend's nose (very long and straight - not like mine which is large and not straight). He even tried to measure the slope once with a ruler!

Hope the rest of your trip was fantastic, and can't wait to hear about it!

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xiao_liang
November 04, 2010 at 10:44 PM

Thanks Cinnamonfern!

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xiao_liang
November 02, 2010 at 02:05 PM

Day #3!

25th October 4pm

It was a close call, but I managed to escape the shopping mall of eternal corridors. C is having her hair cut, so in order to escape the intense pleasure of watching said process I bravely set off into the shopping hinterland of Guangzhou. Aaaaand C just called me to say her hair was done so it's time for me to bravely find where on earth I am go back. Onwards to victory!

Later on.

Right, the shopping malls of Guangzhou. An endless maze of corridors populated by an endless series of teeny tiny shops selling endless repetitions of clothes, toys, phones, antiques, Michael Jackson dolls, haircuts, antique Michael Jackson haircuts... Since I'm buying gifts I venture into a shop selling random things and buy the kids a couple of notebooks and things ("Special agent 美女"). The shop assistant tots them up (A massive ¥15.5, or £1.55ish) then looks up and freezes in panic as she realises I'm horrifically foreign. Eventually, with a constipated look, she jabs her finger at a calculater that I can barely see under the counter with the total on and I can pay. I feel her relief in waves as I leave the shop...

Did I mention we took a bus? We took a bus. It wasn't exciting. There were kids everywhere. C said it was lunchtime. At 2pm?! Oh yea, 2 hour lunch, but they start at 8am! Oh, but they have a nap in the afternoon too. Wtf! I was labouring under the impression these kids work noin stop 8am to 8pm, I was feeling sorry for them! At 4.30 there are kids everywhere again, now even C is confused, why are they out of school so early?! Aah, she nods seeing their "uniform" (read: shapeless shellsuit), this is a bad school. Yea, BAD bad school, allowing your children out before it's the middle of the night. Look at them, they are laughing and happy, fetch the Head of Discipline! (note: real school job).

At the end of our shopping trip we took the 地铁 back and walked through the back alleys to their flat. They are utterly brilliant - overcrowded, buildings 4 stories high hanging over you either side, hawkers and shop owners selling everything from fruit to eyebrow threading and a man with a huge pile of possibly fake 100 dollar notes changing money. Cables looped over our heads and intertwined with trees. Real Guangzhou and real Chinese people. I felt like a giant white outsider peeping on a hidden world. C has promised to take me at night at which point I will pretend to be a character from the game Shenmue and probably have some form of ludicrous kung fu battle (that happened in Big Trouble in Little China, so it must be true).

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bababardwan
November 02, 2010 at 11:54 PM

hehe, I love the ending ..the way you want to immerse yourself in a real life role playing fantasy. Keep that spirit. Jiayou. :)

thanks also for sharing and for your vivid descriptions which really helps us imagine being there..love it

ps you must tell us if you meet any Big Trouble in Little China characters/situations.

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mikeinewshot
November 02, 2010 at 10:07 AM

I have just discovered this fun conversation.

As a fellow Brit, let me join in this vicarious experience!

Actually I have some similar experience myself.  Had a good laugh at much of it, in particular changing plans apparently at random, photographs ...

Incidentally the hotel with the fountain sounds like The White Swan Hotel http://www.travelchinaguide.com/hotel/white-swan-hotel-guangzhou.htm

Yes, I am interested too in what the relative use of Guangdonghua and Putonghua is ...  The grandparents in the family I know in Guangzhou cannot speak Mandarin.

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xiao_liang
November 04, 2010 at 10:43 PM

That's the right place Jen! Her 爷爷 and 奶奶 live there.

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mikeinewshot
November 04, 2010 at 11:01 AM

Well sort of! I went to meet a friend of mine who lives in Guangzhou, and along the way I met her parents - nothing as serious or formal as xiao liang though!

If I knew how to post pictures, I would include lots of backstreets and wedding parties ....

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jen_not_jenny
November 03, 2010 at 01:25 AM

Of course! The multiple bridal parties and photographers could only have been 沙面岛! It's one of my absolute favorite places in Guangzhou. A few years ago, the old European buildings were in a serious state of disrepair but it seems they've been making more efforts to preserve them of late.

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xiao_liang
November 02, 2010 at 01:51 PM

It was indeed the White Swan! Good detective work! See above for language answer :)

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pretzellogic
November 02, 2010 at 10:41 AM

so mike, you mean you went with your girlfriend to China to visit her parents?

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xiao_liang
November 02, 2010 at 01:26 AM

Day #2 (by the way, if this gets really annoying for anyone, please shout and I'll stop posting them!)

24th October 8.30am

View from the window is awesome. Half shanty town, half ultra-modern buildings. The family's dog / mini lion no longer wishes to tear my throat out, but instead has decided to ignore my presence in the hope I'll go away. To my surprise, the woodern carving of a tortoise turned out to be a real tortoise. Breakfast was bread, uht milk, and fried eggs eaten with chopsticks. I'm still full from last night but nobly ate three portions, because I want to develop a magnificent belly.

11.20pm

I live! Waist size increasing pleasantly to plan. Baking sunshine this morning, drove to see local attractions with Dad and C. Art gallery includes photo gallery of Chairman Mao (of course!) and collection of paper skulls decorated by schoolchildren. Actually pleasantly surprising to see so much expression and artwork, especially from a school system we are led to believe suppresses creativity at all costs. C's dad takes a picture of every single painting with the biggest camera known to man. Some of them twice. He also strides into bits of the gallery clearly marked "not open. Exhibition under construction" bellowing "thank you for your understanding, we have a foreign visitor“ as increasingly frantic young men try to indicate he shouldn't be here.

Site of the Asian games 2010 is very grand and packet with people. Also blindingly hot. Dad says he has no interest whatsoever in the games and takes a hundred photos.

Back briefly for lunch then we walk through a painfully picturesque series of garden squares with beautiful trees and buildings everywhere. There are at east 30 brides having their photos taken, with or without their future husbands. Half of them aren't even getting married, just taking pretty pictures. The ones faking it are generally very very pretty. The best looking ones have attracted a little phalanx of amateur perver... I mean photographers who are forlornly trailing after them snapping frantically. One in particular has 20-30 people crowding around to take pictures. Everyone acts as if this is completely normal and not at all bizarre, so I try not to gawp (I fail).

We walk to 奶奶's house (grandma). She is ancient and adorable and within a few minutes of meeting me gives me a massive jade necklace "for protection". Hopefully not from the rest of the family. C's relatives are actually lovely. 爷爷 strides into the room declaring that China is the greatest country in the world. I enthusiastically agree and smile encouragingly. C's 16 year old cousin is constantly told to ask me questions to practice her English, and burning bright red, clearly wishing she was anywhere else, consistently fails to do so. I find this hilarious although if she rolls her eyes any more they might pop out of her ears.

We all go to a ludicrously plush hotel for dinner. It has a 3-story waterfall in the middle of its lobby. I eat everything and don't look at it too closeley. This is an excellent strategy. Dad has declared to everyone that I understand 30% and can speak 20% of Chinese, which is a wild exaggeration but I take what I can get and cling to my translator.

大姑 (Big aunt, who is tiny) begins to list to the whole table apparently the list of reasons I am so awesome. I'm very honoured but lose track of the conversation. I'm saved by C who thankfully leans over and hisses "say thank you more!" at the appropriate time. Small pause while 爷爷 lectures the cousin about what a good education is and she should listen to him because he's never mentioned it before but he used to be kind of a big deal (he apparently mentions this constantly).

There is SO MUCH FOOD. You'd think 16 people could polish off anything but thankfully the restaurant is ready with the doggy bags. We take 2973 photos in front of various things and walk back to grandma's. On getting home it turns out grandma has slipped an extra gift into the bag for C and I. It is a matching gold signet ring and bracelet. This is a bit like Christmas except there is no reason whatsoever for people to keep giving me things. They've also left the receipt in, just in case we wanted to know how wildly valuable these gifts are.

Finish off the evening by trying out a series of massage gadgets in the parents' house. After my brain is nearly squeezed out of my ears and my belly vibrated off, the massage chair is so good, if it had slept with me and made a cup of tea, I'd have married it tomorrow.*

*C tells me that she does not approve of this sentence. Temptation to make it even worse is overwhelming...

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jen_not_jenny
November 03, 2010 at 01:36 AM

"Vivid" is just the right word, bodawei! I agree completely.

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zhenlijiang
November 02, 2010 at 10:40 PM

That does sound like something I would enjoy. My problem was of course about me lacking cultural knowledge that would have guided what to say, to better encourage the visiting kids in an unfamiliar setting. I'd been clutching my electronic dictionary in both hands the whole time, frantically searching for words I thought might be the key to open doors, but that wasn't enough, not surprisingly.

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bodawei
November 02, 2010 at 02:02 PM

Like jen_not-jenny I am reminded of my first (and second) trip to China - the thing is it will never be this vivid (I nearly said 'good' but that is not quite what I'm after) again, and you will remember things from this trip for ever. Love your 'diary' - and your new family (definitely in marriage preparation phase) reminds me of experiences I have with one family (now part of the extended family). The photo obsession. The 16 year old forced to 'practice their English' going red. Striding into galleries marked not open. It's a great time, enjoy it, and thanks for sharing your excitement with us.

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xiao_liang
November 02, 2010 at 01:50 PM

@pretzellogic Hah, I wish! Sadly I'm just a humble manager. Weddings, houses, there are a lot of financial expectations coming up I think!

@zhenlijiang That's really interesting. You'd have liked this exhibition I think. There were four parts for the four stages of life, and some photos and videos of the kids doing the work. It was the brainchild of a chinese artist, so she was there coaching them through it, although I don't know if she had the same problems as you...

@toianw All the family are native mandarin speakers. They are not originally from Guangzhou so they all speak mandarin as their first language, although they can speak cantonese. I hear a mixture about 50/50 of mandarin/cantonese in guanghou - C speaks to all the shop assistants and cab drivers in cantonese as first choice. With her childhood friend from the city she switches randomly between the two languages, which is mildly confusing...

Thanks for the nice words!

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bababardwan
November 02, 2010 at 12:11 PM

oh mate, I can't tell you how enjoyable this was to read. I love your humourous observations. Definitely keep 'em coming and thankyou :)

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jen_not_jenny
November 02, 2010 at 07:10 AM

It's nice to read these detailed, entertaining accounts of your first trip to China, xiao_liang! Reminds me of my first days in the country...thanks for sharing!

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toianw
November 02, 2010 at 06:47 AM

Hi xiao_liang

Thanks for sharing. Keep 'em coming - it's a great read. A quick question if you don't mind. Are your girlfriend's family native mandarin speakers? If not presumably they are speaking mandarin with you. Can they all speak mandarin or is there a noticeable difference in ability between different ages? How much mandarin do you here out and about in Guanzhou? Sorry, that was more than one question. Thanks again for sharing your experiences with us.

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zhenlijiang
November 02, 2010 at 03:44 AM

Sorry my mistake, that wasn't 10 kids from Hangzhou in shop class. It was 6 from Hangzhou and I think 4 from Seoul. So one or two Chinese and one Korean visitor per group. The Korean kids had their own interpreter and I didn't really see if they were having a similarly hard time getting started.

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zhenlijiang
November 02, 2010 at 03:00 AM

Can't wait to see the photos, because I'm already seeing all you describe and just want to see how wildly off I am.

Dad has declared to everyone that I understand 30% and can speak 20% of Chinese--can I get an evaluation like that? Able to speak 20% of Chinese--Wow.

About creativity, that's what you're "told"? Huh interesting. I don't think any kind of education system can kill creativity in people. We're human, we're creative. I think what can happen is, we can raise (accustom) our kids to be comfortable with acting spontaneously, to be comfortable expressing themselves without the assurance of always knowing exactly what to expect.

I did wonder, through my very limited experience around 4th-6th grade kids on a 3-day exchange in Tokyo--it seemed all but one of the 10 kids from Hangzhou I was helping in shop class (the kids were each making their own little jigsaw puzzle) were just stumped when told, "you can design your puzzle however you like, draw or write anything you like". Maybe it was my terrible Chinese? But the one boy did start working pretty quickly so it couldn't have been just that. I went around each table several times and assured (anything at all!) and encouraged (whatever you come up with will be great!) and asked (what do you like? how about your favorite hanzi or word? you could design your name maybe) and prodded over and over again, with the Japanese kids also helping, but most of the Chinese kids simply couldn't start. They looked vexed, some appealed to me "I don't know what to draw!", held pencil in hand but didn't seem to know what they could possibly do with it. I don't know what I ought to have done, said, to make them comfortable but it seemed to me that at least some of them had trouble with not getting what outcome was expected of them that they could work toward. The "anything at all you feel like" wasn't a good prompt for them. In the end the kids did draw pictures, designed their little puzzles. But it took a loooooong time for them to start, so they had to rush through using the cutting machines and all, and a few were late leaving for lunch. I was totally unprepared for kids having such a hard time getting started on drawing anything they liked. I didn't think their creativity was stifled. I suppose they could have been a little self-conscious, they were visitors (along with the visiting kids from Korea) and the host kids were watching (friendly though of course, and really helpful). I wondered if it was specifically the lack of restriction that they weren't too used to, or something else.

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pretzellogic
November 02, 2010 at 01:45 AM

but that's ok, because you're an investment banker for Goldman Sachs! 500 guests, and you will have to buy gifts, and fly back to China from London. Well, you have another reason to come to China! Go to Beijing this time. See creativity in action at the 798 art zone.

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pretzellogic
November 02, 2010 at 01:42 AM

dude, you are going to have an extremely expensive Chinese wedding....

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xiao_liang
November 01, 2010 at 04:46 PM

I've been writing a diary every day, but on my ipod, which was stupid because I can never find any wireless here. I'm going to eventually bore you all with them all. There are pictures to go with every entry, but here's the first one sans pictures, because it's super late and i should be in bed. :-p

23rd October 11.30pm

Day 1 in China! Arrived at Hong Kong airport and changed into suit to appear more respectable. Suspect this is a futile effort. Hong Kong Terminal 1 has an awesome ceiling. Burger King is called 美心, which is both odd and inexplicable in equal measure (note: no it isn't. 美心 was just next door to BK). Bus to Guangzhou, immigration twice. Slowest immigration clerk in the known universe examines every aspect of every passport for about 20 minutes. Die of boredom. Walk back to the bus and a random woman gives me a packet of what I thought was candy, Christine thought was tissues, and turned out to be condoms. I'm not sure this will impress the parents.

We are feeling a bit hungry so eat some snacks we bought at the airport on the bus. This is a fatal error. Meet the parents and trot out the set phrases I've memorised and practiced for the entire flight. They are very pleasant and happy and we go for the biggest meal in the known universe. Seafood resaurant with every type of fish, lobster and seafood you've ever seen living (and shortly, dying) in tanks. They have a guard crocodile. Christine's dad orders what seems to be every dish on the menu. All of them. I cheerfully eat everything I'm given and don't look at it too closely. Everyone's a winner.

Back to home, carry enormous bags up 8 flights of stairs (to get a lift by law, a building has to have 9 floors. This building has 8, and of course, they live on the top floor...), die. Make appreciative noises about the flat and its contents, give gifts that seem to be gratefully recieved, with a short break to marvel at a) how tall the brand new miss china is (a whole 5'9") and b) wonder how she won with short hair.

I mention I like guan yin, as there are a few pictures of her around, Mum gives me enormous bronze medal with her on it spontaneously. I have no idea what to say, especially since it apparently belongs to dad, and he doesn't know she just gave it to me. Lots of thank yous, and bedtime. Meet the family tomorrow!

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bababardwan
November 02, 2010 at 11:52 AM

maybe the random woman was trying to push for a no child policy

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pretzellogic
November 02, 2010 at 01:38 AM

you're right, but I'm not that sophisticated to find the joke here either....

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pretzellogic
November 02, 2010 at 01:37 AM

been there, done that!

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RJ
November 02, 2010 at 01:02 AM

A gift horse? There's a joke in there somewhere but Im not touching it. One hotel I stayed in had condoms in the bathroom. At first I thought they were free but I soon realized that they were actually part of the mini bar and not cheap. I have never seen this a second time.

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xiao_liang
November 02, 2010 at 12:58 AM

Hehe, indeed. Although of course at her parents' house we're in seperate bedrooms... (I'm 33!) :-)

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pretzellogic
November 01, 2010 at 06:03 PM

so you got condoms for free? Never look a gift horse in the mouth! Sounds like you're having fun so far.

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suxiaoya
October 29, 2010 at 04:48 AM

xiao_liang and Christine made it to the office. Hooray!

So nice to meet you in person, Steve. Thanks a million for the Milk Tray, too (a little taste of Britain in a box!). Hopefully we can get that News & Features interview published soon. Hope you enjoy the rest of your trip, guys!

 

 

 

 

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xiao_liang
November 01, 2010 at 03:26 PM

Yea, it was fun to finally meet people in person, if you see what I mean! Thanks for the nice welcome folks. I fear the interview might be unpublishable, as I'm kind of high-pitched when excited, and might have blown the microphones :-p

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bababardwan
October 29, 2010 at 05:03 AM

yay, so he will be on N&F. That I look forward to. :)

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pretzellogic
October 27, 2010 at 03:48 PM

oh, and what are you getting for the girlfriend tomorrow? You were probably too busy to buy her a birthday cake.

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suxiaoya
November 08, 2010 at 06:04 AM

sue3 - I've been to the Vienna Cafe just once! Sat on a cozy little corner table with a friend and a coffee on a rainy saturday afternoon. It was so nice, but I didn't try the cake... there's my excuse to go back! :-)

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Sue
November 06, 2010 at 06:42 PM

Hi suxioya - but you HAVE been to the Vienna Cafe in Shanghai I hope ? nice with homemade cakes !

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bodawei
October 29, 2010 at 08:13 AM

Your classic Chinese birthday cake actually works well for me - there is so much cream and fruit on top of the sponge that I can avoid any of the gluten in the cake and still get a feed! :)

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pretzellogic
October 28, 2010 at 02:30 AM

Oh, that's what you mean. Well, that's up here too. But I like that! very busy. But you can get the non-busy cake as well.

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suxiaoya
October 28, 2010 at 02:16 AM

The birthday cakes in Shanghai usually compose of very light sponge, lots and lots of whipped cream, and surprise fruits. Many times I have be horrified to find soggy cherry bits hidden within the sponge layers. It's all very artificial in taste and appearance. Definitely overdecorated.

I guess my main problm, though, is that they just don't resemble birthday cakes as I know them! Aside from homemade cakes, I miss Marks & Spencers' caterpillar cake from the UK :-)

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pretzellogic
October 28, 2010 at 01:57 AM

"Chinese birthday cakes are quite strange anyway."

Well, that might be a Shanghai thing :-)..... most of the birthday cakes I've seen in Beijing have been pretty mundane, or at least as overdecorated as i've seen elsewhere. Definitely something i'd see in the US. But I have seen a 7 story wedding cake in a bakery here that didn't quite work for me.

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suxiaoya
October 28, 2010 at 01:32 AM

Chinese birthday cakes are quite strange anyway. I'd stick with the noodles, they are very important!

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pretzellogic
October 28, 2010 at 01:28 AM

Musical??

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pretzellogic
October 28, 2010 at 01:23 AM

Noodles?

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xiao_liang
October 28, 2010 at 12:50 AM

Cake wouldn't have travelled very well in my suitcase! I bought her some tickets to a musical she wanted to see in London, and some earrings and some other stuff. Thanks for the noodles reminder!

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bababardwan
October 27, 2010 at 10:21 PM

there's a Dear Amber on Birthdays which discusses gifts, eating noodles [to signify longevity] deng deng

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xiao_liang
October 27, 2010 at 03:20 PM

I'm writing a diary of my time while I'm here, and planned to upload it to a blog for something fun to do with pictures etc. But blogspot doesn't work here. Anyone got any other suggestions? Other than this messageboard...

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bodawei
October 29, 2010 at 11:33 AM

xiao_liang

Just saw this, maybe too late for you.

You can try wordpress. or yahoo also works in the mainland. And QQ.

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pretzellogic
October 28, 2010 at 01:26 AM

I meant no offense. I was asking because it appears that a phenomenon I experienced in China quite a few times and thought was nationwide is casually starting to look like just a local phenomenon.

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xiao_liang
October 28, 2010 at 12:47 AM

NOooo. They're not drinkers. The worst we had was sharing a glass of beer at dinner! (My girlfriend just read that and said "No! My family are well educated and civilised!")

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pretzellogic
October 27, 2010 at 03:46 PM

I have no good suggestions to give you in this arena; my access to my blog was blocked. Wherever website jenny zhu's blog is being hosted at is probably a good starting point.

I am curious. Have the male members of the family been inviting you to drink liquor? And if so, have you imbibed? and if so, what were the results?

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pretzellogic
October 23, 2010 at 06:04 AM

So it turns out that flightaware doesn't track well outside the US. When you start with flights that originate in the US, you get flight route information. This is for United 851 from Chicago to Beijing:

http://origin.flightaware.com/live/flight/UAL851

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pretzellogic
October 25, 2010 at 02:37 PM

I suppose you're right. In some distant future, if you actually have to get yourself around China by yourself, you'll be fluent by then.

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xiao_liang
October 25, 2010 at 02:15 PM

Hehe, for sure! But having a personal translator is just so convenient sometimes :-p

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pretzellogic
October 25, 2010 at 02:13 PM

I understand. Aside from the beggers, I usually get art students trying to sell me the amateur reproductions of relatively unknown works. Sadly, this worked on me the first time it happened, thinking that they were earnest art students. The good news for you is that I've only experienced this art student "thing" on wangfujing in Beijing (good because you're not coming to Beijing to experience this). The bad news is that there are other ways to separate you from your money.

And if you had to get yourself around instead of relying on girlfriend/family members, you'd be worshipping at cpod's taxi lessons :-)

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xiao_liang
October 25, 2010 at 02:05 PM

Family's computer. Dad gets up for work and leaves at 8, and we don't want to waste the day :-p

You know, chinesepod has been so useful. Little phrases you've heard in lessons just pop into your head, like when a shop assistant today told me to 试一下 which was in a recent Qing Wen.

Although, I wandered around Guangzhou for a couple of hours on my own today, and no-one tried to sell me tea for an outrageous price. Highly disappointing ;-)

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pretzellogic
October 25, 2010 at 01:32 AM

Are you going to the local starbucks with your laptop to check in with us mere mortals? Or are you logging into cpod with the relative's computer at their home? I realize that you do not want to be a late sleeper when visiting others, but at the same time, 9am seems early when you are on vacation. (yes, you are up at 5 or 6am during the workweek, but this is not the workweek).

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xiao_liang
October 25, 2010 at 01:27 AM

Turns out I was wrong, it was just the next-door eatery. Oh well, it makes a nice story :-p

Last night's dinner with the relatives went well! Totally overloaded with unbelievable amounts of gifts, and her auntie made a speech to the entire table where she listed the reasons why I'm apparently brilliant. Not sure how I managed to persuade them of this, but definitely can't complain...

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paulinurus
October 24, 2010 at 05:46 AM

Have a great trip, and looking forward to read your impressions! By the way, do try and cross the streets in the city. If the streets of Guangzhou are like those in Hangzhou, you're in for a lot of fun.

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xiao_liang
October 24, 2010 at 05:01 AM

haha, I didn't eat there, just saw it. The first food we had was a huuuuge seafood restaurant with a pet crocodile, and every type of fish you could think of swimming in tanks for you to pick out.

So. Much. Food. Bodawei is wise.

Full reports at some later date! xx

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bababardwan
October 23, 2010 at 10:10 AM

I was tracking it earlier as well and unlike some other flights didn't seem to show the graphic for some reason but did give the time into the journey and time to go. I missed the touchdown though as I was out. Go get 'em mate. Jiayou !! :)

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pretzellogic
October 23, 2010 at 10:03 AM

cool! the first food eaten in China (HK) is American fast food! On to Starbucks!

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JasonSch
October 23, 2010 at 09:07 AM

欢迎你到中国来!;)See ya on Thursday!

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bodawei
October 23, 2010 at 09:06 AM

MDBG says 汉堡王 Hànbǎowáng

Maybe it is different on the 大陆 dàlù (mainland)?

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bodawei
October 23, 2010 at 09:02 AM

Welcome to China xiao_liang! We turned down the typhoons just for you (the Chinese Government claims great success in modifying the weather.) Hope the skies are blue and the 粥 zhōu (congee) especially tasty.

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xiao_liang
October 23, 2010 at 08:58 AM

Lol, you guys are great :-) arrived safely, everyone in hong kong airport is speaking mandarin! Burger king is called 美心 which I found quite funny. That's it so far!

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pretzellogic
October 23, 2010 at 08:13 AM

No, I mean in the little box for United 851 that says "route", you get this:

BAE 5000N 09000W 5500N 09000W YEK 6600N 10000W 7000N 10800W 7400N 12000W OMEKA ORVIT G494 DILSA G494 LURET G495 URILI G495 KU G496 NAREM B161 SULOK G218 MENOR G218 POLHO G218 TMR B458 TZH A596 KM

this tells you the coordinates and locators that the airplane will fly over. For ANZ 38, that stuff isn't provided.

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zhenlijiang
October 23, 2010 at 07:57 AM

Arrived at gate 10 minutes ago! Hooray

http://zh.flightaware.com/live/flight/ANZ38/history/20101022/2005Z/EGLL/VHHH

You don't get the graphic you mean? Maybe not. It looked like it started to show us, from Heathrow. It was giving updated data at least (Taxiing. pushed away from gate 5 minutes ago). It was saying how many miles flown, how many more to go at least into the first 500+ miles. And telling us the time left in the journey, but I didn't watch the whole flight haha, so don't know if the whole flight was tracked well or not.

Anyway they arrived safely.

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bababardwan
October 22, 2010 at 09:17 PM

He's off...43 minutes into the flight. Jiayou.

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suxiaoya
October 22, 2010 at 01:47 AM

Xiao_liang, I hope you have a fantastic time in China. How totally exciting.

I'm sure the whole family will be really impressed that you have made so much effort with Mandarin. In my experience, the Chinese are so hospitable and very, very forgiving of foreigners' funny ways.

It's such a shame that you won't get a chance to come by the office, but we can forgive you - as long as you give us detailed reports upon return to England ;-)

Safe flight!

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suxiaoya
October 28, 2010 at 01:27 AM

Post update well noted! So we're seeing you this afternoon? Do not worry, though; if plans change again we will totally understand... :-)

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xiao_liang
October 28, 2010 at 12:57 AM

Right! Sarah please see above reply! Thanks ZLJ!

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zhenlijiang
October 28, 2010 at 12:56 AM

Hey you should reply to Sarah (well I suppose you're not just contacting CPod via this thread) not yourself, this comment is buried. Latest they heard is you're gutted about not getting to go.

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xiao_liang
October 28, 2010 at 12:45 AM

Aaaand plans change again. (Again!). We ARE now coming after all. This family is deeply confusing! lol

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xiao_liang
October 27, 2010 at 02:59 PM

Ah, I may have spoken too soon. We are being forced to go to the expo after all on Thursday (and I mean forced!), and there is no way for me to get out of it without causing offense. It may have to be next time, or a quick visit on Friday when no-one is in your office. Gutted :-(

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suxiaoya
October 22, 2010 at 09:42 AM

Ah, wonderful news! Hope to see you next week, then :-)

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xiao_liang
October 22, 2010 at 09:28 AM

Thanks Sarah!

I think I will get a chance - see the update above! Hopefully be seeing you Thursday afternoon! I'll try and bring a taste of England with me :)

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liqianlysy
October 20, 2010 at 12:16 PM

hunt for a job

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liqianlysy
October 20, 2010 at 12:13 PM

I need to hunt a job 

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zhenlijiang
October 22, 2010 at 05:35 PM

http://zh.flightaware.com/live/flight/ANZ38/history/20101022/2005Z/EGLL/VHHH

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Tal
October 20, 2010 at 12:13 AM

Have a great trip mate! 一路顺风!

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trevorb
October 19, 2010 at 07:48 PM

On second thoughts I just saw this

Expo

You need to practice 让一下!!

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 09:40 PM

Dear lord above I do not want to go.

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bodawei
October 18, 2010 at 11:04 PM

You are in for the time of your life. But I think that your hosts will be more interested in eating than in you (or it might seem that way.) Just let me readjust your schedule a bit:

Friday 22nd - Fly to Hong Kong - last ordinary food for two weeks.

Sat 23rd -eat first meal in China

Sun 24th - eat three enormous meals..

Mon 25th - eat another three enormous meals

Tue-wed - eat just one continuous meal...

Thurs - extra big meal today

Fri 29th - fly to Shanghai. More big meals. Try to avoid real Shanghai food.. Or - you could try the local specialty of a bowl of pig's blood.. Not bad actually. :)

Sat 30th - Stay with grandma - more big meals.

Sun 31st - meet the entire other half of the family. spend whole time eating.

Monday -Tuesday - explore Nanjing, three big meals

Wed - bus to Hong Kong, stay with uncle - eat at least one enormous meal

Thur - stay with friend - eat enormous meal

Fri - get up super early, have breakfast, go to airport.

Sat - badly miss Chinese food.

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bababardwan
October 28, 2010 at 05:13 AM

sorry mate, that should have been:

hehe, dangran wo kaiwanxiao, keshi , buhaoyisi, "huzi shexiangtou" zhende shi hushuo. wo zhidao, wo yinggai guahuzi.

Jiayou pengyou, wo xiwang ni xingfu. wanr dianr ba.

[huzi shexiangtou= mo cam]

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xiao_liang
October 28, 2010 at 12:59 AM

... beard???

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bababardwan
October 27, 2010 at 11:14 PM

呵呵,当然我开玩笑,可是,不好意思,“胡子摄像头”真的是胡说。我知道我应该刮胡子。。。

加油朋友,我希望你幸福,玩儿点儿吧

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paulinurus
October 24, 2010 at 06:01 AM

Wow, $18 to see a movie! One thing I don't understand about Japan is why generally things are SO EXPENSIVE compared to other countries in Asia. I saw mangoes selling for US$50 each, water melons $15 each, apples $5 each, cantelopes $18. And of course, beef prices are out of this world. Well OK Okinawa is an island, but still...such prices are killers! How do Japanese people afford to buy food?

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zhenlijiang
October 23, 2010 at 10:51 PM

OK I looked it up. It's 3,000 JPY so US$30 (at date this rate is totally unreal of course, but I'm going by US$1 = 100 JPY because that's more normal) for a single-entry tourist visa for us, 30 or 90 days. And Japanese nationals can stay up to 15 days without any visa. I left on the 15th day. It's funny how at the end of the application form they have an item worded "You can pay extra and get your visa in fewer days if you like. Would you like?"--not exactly as so, but close. It's another 3,000 JPY if you want the 加急. Clever pricing, always business-minded. I see agents now offering to take care of the visa for US$50 or so. So of course the 8,000 JPY is a ripoff, but Japanese tend to part more easily with their money if they think they're buying a bit of security, comfort, hassle-freeness, peace of mind. A generalization of course, and experienced travelers will do so less. The embassy in Tokyo is close enough for me to do it myself, but just far enough to be mafan on a tight schedule, and apparently I have to show up (or have someone go) to pick up the visa. Two trips to the embassy will set me back about US$20 anyway. I might as well have an agent do it for me at US$50.

I totally forgot you travel much further to get to China than we do. So of course we pay much less for airfare. Ignoring all the LCC's (low-cost carriers) like 春秋航空 starting service in regional cities here, an OK deal for us on say China Eastern would be about US$750 I think, including all the fuel and airport use fees, agent fees. When I traveled Northwest happened to be doing a 促销 and my airfare came to US$430 (ticket price US$300). Very good deal.

Again, I have a feeling the intent in waiving the visa for short visits by Japanese was to encourage more tourist travel, esp by older travelers who would be less likely to stay at hostels and use public transport, perhaps more likely to hire interpreters, hire cars, go on extra guided tours, spend more money. And weekend travelers who would also often be repeaters. Seoul is a very popular destination for that esp among women. Cities like SH should also be, since it's only a 3-hour flight for us.

But yes, I would think the Chinese look at how much it costs to visit from Australia. I think they look at everything. Isn't that what pricing is about--guessing correctly if and how much a certain customer would be willing to pay for different things?

We have ladies days etc, but I wish we had different prices for different films! How come 国产的 costs just as much as 进口的 (I don't think our film industry is producing much good stuff now)? It's so expensive, a regular ticket is US$18. I'm kind of serious about films though, still will only see them at theaters (very discriminately). A movie worth seeing is worth spending US$18 to me, and the communal experience, the publicness, is so important to me too. Having said that I do try to go on the US$10 days.

* sorry for spamming up your thread XiaoLiang *

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bodawei
October 23, 2010 at 08:56 AM

It is US$40 for a 3 month tourist visa now (recently increased from US$30.) I am working on US$1 = A$1.

I thought about your point about pricing - 'so friendly a visa fee wouldn't keep you from going'. The price always helps and the A$ has been appreciating against the RMB recently, so trips to China are cheaper than they were from this point of view, but there are other factors (see Viva Macau below).

I do think that China has some of the cleverest pricing generally in my experience; I guess a long continuous culture helps that kind of thing evolve. Example: cinema prices vary with the film and the session. In Australia we have a little differential pricing but not much.

I wonder if the Chinese look at how much it costs for an Australian to visit - despite the appreciating A$ travel has got more expensive since Viva Macau ceased trading, so the visa fee is still a fairly insignificant add-on. It is not going to stop you coming. The cheapest return air ticket is about US$1000 these days. Only a couple of years ago our daughter travelled for just half that price.

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zhenlijiang
October 22, 2010 at 03:26 PM

Would I lie to you Bodawei? Despite the way China has chosen to keep Japan as a pet enemy for the past few decades I'm telling you, there is sweet 友好 flowing back and forth between the two countries (the "PR people" in Beijing think 友好 is something you get to twist off though, whenever, like tap water--and I know, they do it to other countries too, not just us). Funny ways indeed. OK sorry. Maybe you have to pay because you're so friendly with them a visa fee wouldn't keep you from going? How expensive is it? I was told I'd be charged 8,000 JPY if I made my last (tourist) visit longer than the 14 days. I think that includes fees for the travel agent to do it, the actual visa shouldn't cost that much. And I forget for how long it was good. Maybe they intended to encourage more travel to China from Japan because (I don't know anything here, just guessing) Japanese travelers generally tend to be timid = spend more money on hotels and restaurants and touristy activities than be economical and more adventurous? Japan has only just begun to relax requirements for Chinese visitors. It used to be until recently you couldn't come visit on your own, you had to be part of a tour group, not because Japan and China are not friends but because overstayers → illegal residents were a problem.

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bodawei
October 22, 2010 at 02:42 PM

Hi zhenlijiang

Wow - is this for real? I did not realise that. We Australians are supposed to be best friends and we have to line up and buy an expensive visa to get over the border. (We can go into HK however for I think 3 months.)

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zhenlijiang
October 22, 2010 at 02:24 PM

Didn't he show us a picture of his somewhere?

Japanese need visas for visits longer than 14 days I think it was.

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pretzellogic
October 22, 2010 at 12:58 PM

I suppose it's too late at this point, but I hope he realizes that he needs a visa to enter China....or maybe that's just Americans...

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bababardwan
October 22, 2010 at 12:40 PM

xiaoliang de naozhong: you're flight leaves in 7 hours 35 minutes !! ...bie ji bie ji.

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bababardwan
October 20, 2010 at 01:02 PM

Maybe you could secretly wear a mo cam, and have it hooked up wirelessly for some live streaming and have a little earphone, and we poddies could give you live interpretations of the baba's facial expressions/ body language in reaction to you and advise you how to adjust [ and just a reminder, for goodness sake, again, if we say duck..dont think kaoya ] ...with a promise not to wimp lo you of course...

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zhenlijiang
October 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM

No, no desperation haha. It's more a friendly interest in how you would turn out to meet the girlfriend's parents than wanting to see how you look at work every day.  (^^)

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xiao_liang
October 20, 2010 at 10:46 AM

Hehe! I wear one every day unfortunately! But I won't be wearing it for long, just to say hi to the parents for the first time.

I'm sure I can find a photo somewhere if you're that desperate and can face the horror! ;-)

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zhenlijiang
October 20, 2010 at 09:01 AM

Didn't know about FlightAware. Nice!

But kinda strange, to know so much about somebody else's life.

Having said that, among other things, I look forward to seeing pictures of XL wearing a suit.

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 06:00 PM

Believe it or not, I'm already packed :-p

As to the flight, you're very welcome - New Zealand airlines NZ0038 at 20.15pm from Heathrow :) I'm gonna imagine I'm Indiana Jones with one of those big red tracking lines during a segue between scenes :) (only, y'know... less cool)

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 01:11 PM

:)

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 01:11 PM

hey, that sounds like fun...watching his flight progress....and if he can't make it to CPod offices for an interview, maybe he could do one via phone from the flight [if the flight has one of those phones....do they all have them now?] and he could talk us through his game plan....

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 01:07 PM

hehe, oh yes, jiushi, they'll no doubt have the upper hand the whole time ..excellent point mate

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 12:57 PM

shouldn't you be packing instead of posting? Isn't it like almost 2pm in the UK on the 19th? don't you have 3 days to go? What flight are you flying; us aviation buffs can watch you progress toward nirvana on www.flightaware.com

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 12:30 PM

I hate you all! ;-)

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 12:17 PM

yes, but then the rest of the family will whip out their flyswatters and gently point out that Chén Lóng showed the right tool to kill flies with in the 2010 remake

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 12:09 PM

yeah, I guess they'll be happy with the ordinary stuff...like how the original karate kid showed us that all western kids have a knack for catching flies with their chopsticks..so flies will naturally be xiaoliang's 负责

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 12:05 PM

lol ;)

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 12:00 PM

nonsense! merely picking up marbles with his plastic (not wood!) chopsticks like the rest of the family will be fine!

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 11:51 AM

really, you can't ask silly questions like "what is this"?.....I'd really be in trouble...I clearly wouldn't be conformist enough. I'd be relishing the opportunity too much to hold back. Aiyou.

"Oh, and at this point, xiao_liang has mastered chopsticks, correct?"

..dangran lo. The expectation will that he'll be able to entertain all with some never seen before tricks with them while regaling them with some heretofore unknown facts about them.

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 10:29 AM

Oh, and as long as xiao_liang doesn't ask silly questions at dinner like "what is this?", he'll be fine.:-)

Oh, and at this point, xiao_liang has mastered chopsticks, correct?

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 10:26 AM

too bad about not bringing the running shoes, but unfortunately, you're probably right. There won't be much time to even get in a 1 mile run, let alone 10 miles (unless you're faster than me, which isn't saying much).

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 07:43 AM

LOL. I love this!

I never have a problem with eating lots, so hopefully we'll live :-p I've already been briefed to say I like the things her dad likes... however grunting 好 is pretty much the limit of my Chinese, so I think we're safe with that...

And I am a runner! But I'm not taking my running shoes :-) I'll be knackered enough walking around 4 massive cities...

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bodawei
October 19, 2010 at 04:02 AM

Yeah, he does need some defensive strategies.

1. Never, never, never, never, never, (I'm sounding like Toad of Toad Hall) ..never, never, .. say you like something. They won't care much whether you say that you like it; your liking or disliking something is not going to cause a fundamental re-think of Chinese food culture. If you say you like it they will just order more. Never fails. BIG mistake. Just grunt 好 every now and then so they know you are human.

2. Eat the tiniest pieces of everything on offer. Tiny, tiny, tiny. .. Tiny.

3. Claim that you can't drink alcohol for health reasons.

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 03:29 AM

There's nothing in these meals that a good 10-15 mile run doesn't cure. Xiao-liang didn't say he was a runner though.

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 12:29 AM

I think we should all pitch in with some advise on how to deal with all this extra food without losing face. I'd like to start with some behind the mo, and maybe befriending whatever pets they have and slipping it under the table to the pet...at the same time winning over another member of the family

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bababardwan
October 18, 2010 at 11:52 PM

lol, good one mate. So what you're saying is we won't have a xiao liang any more after this.

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 04:27 PM

Hmn, this might put a crimp in our plans...

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11562238

Due to hit Hong Kong almost exactly when we arrive...

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 12:14 PM

..so you'll literally blow into the country for a whirlwind tour. I just hope they're not the superstitious type who would blame you for bringing any typhoon damage that may ensue.....

[j/k mate...you'll be fine]

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 07:40 AM

It's more the landing in high winds I'm worried about :-p

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 03:32 AM

As long as you get to Heathrow (?) when you're scheduled to fly, British Airways/Cathay Pacific/Virgin Atlantic etc., is on the hook to figure out what to do with you (or rather, no additional airline ticket cost to you). They either reschedule you at no cost to you, or divert you in route, or you land at HKG. But it's their problem. ( have a fistfull of credit cards just in case!)

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jen_not_jenny
October 19, 2010 at 03:24 AM

Re: typhoon @HK...even if it hits while you're there, nowhere in the world is better prepared to deal with typhoons than Hong Kong. They'll take care of you.

Practice the 不要in a couple of dialects, too...Cantonese hawkers give up much more quickly when they here a bored "mm yiu, mm yiu." Shanghainese is kind of a "vyoh" sound. Not sure about 南京话. I'm sure Jason could help us out though...

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 08:44 PM

I quite want a mao watch... :)

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trevorb
October 18, 2010 at 07:54 PM

Hey at least its not an ash cloud , and a nice new airport to land in and not that postage stamp they used to use!

I'm told as long as youcan manage 不要 you can even look around without ending up with a mao watch ;-)

Have a great time

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zhenlijiang
October 18, 2010 at 03:39 PM

Wow so soon. Sounds like a very exciting two weeks.
Hey is this your first time in China?

They have already had more visitors at the Expo than our first one way back then. Haha of course they would! People are so much more mobile now, international travel nothing like it was in 1970. How many visitors came from China to Osaka then? Many Japanese have gone to see Shanghai 2010. Hope we're officially thanked for our contribution, if it means so much!

But yeah bummer, if you don't get to visit ChinesePod. Couldn't you go to the Expo first thing in the morning, spend about 6 hours there and get to their offices like late afternoon, early evening? I have no idea what I'm talking about logistics-wise of course.

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 08:43 PM

Hmmn, we might be flying on her birthday after all now... oh so complicated! Her best friend's birthday is the day before, so we might celebrate the two together... her family apparently just don't do birthdays! I think they're more panicking about what to feed me. Her dad was saying there's a steakhouse near them which is popular, and we had to insist I will eat "normal" food, honest!

Thanks for your kind words zhenlijiang :-) Much appreciated.

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zhenlijiang
October 18, 2010 at 05:15 PM

Sorry about that. I try not to, but the way Editing messes up your formatting and spacing between words drives me crazy I end up deleting.

Yeah there is funniness (if only it were always only funny) in China about Japanese, and that target for Expo attendance is serious of course. It's so serious you feel sorry for those people who would have been held responsible, should they have come up short (even though that would never happen anyway ...).

Right, of course you have to go to Expo. Maybe you could go to CPod first thing in the morning? It just seems such a shame.

Sure, some families don't make big deals of birthdays. Maybe her parents are too excited, maybe they're running around now like (nutters) too.

Well we shall look forward to hearing about your adventures and how you charmed everybody's socks off. 祝你好运,加油

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 04:01 PM

You keep deleting your post! I already replied to it! :-p

Yes, it's my first time! Quite exciting. The Chinese are so funny about the Japanese I think - I laughed out loud when I heard the ridiculous reason for the free tickets. Maybe it was a joke :-)

Hmn. It's a bit annoying really. I don't really want to visit the expo, but since her dad is going to a special effort to get the tickets, we are honour-bound to do so. Initially he wanted us to fly there on the Thursday, forgetting that was his own daughter's birthday, and the first one she'd spent in China for 10 years! Somehow I think birthdays really aren't a big deal for their family...

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bababardwan
October 18, 2010 at 03:03 PM

As soon as I saw the title of this thread I thought of you. This sounds awesome. Have the time of your life mate. What a shame you won't make it to CPod offices. I was hoping to hear you on N&F. Can't wait to hear your updates though. :)

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 08:44 PM

Thanks barbs!

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pretzellogic
October 18, 2010 at 02:54 PM

Amid all the stress associated with the future-in-law dinner, keep your sense of humor intact, and have fun!

By the way, I forget if you said that this was your first time to China, but if it is, it can't help but be a great time, in addition to getting the potential Missus Xiao_liang.

Say, somewhere in here, you've implied that you might ask her to become Ms. Xiao_liang, but have you already asked her? Will you ask her on this trip, assuming that your future baba hasn't taken the shotgun to you? :-) Not that it's any of my business...just askin.

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bodawei
October 19, 2010 at 02:06 PM

This may not be the time or place but if someone mentions 'duck' they may be referring to certain 特殊服务 (see recent lesson 'Doing Business in the Bath House').

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 01:41 PM

na, in that case, zuihao if someone mentions duck, don't presume they're referring to beijing kaoya ....

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xiao_liang
October 19, 2010 at 12:28 PM

Actually, he does have a sword apparently... :-p

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bababardwan
October 19, 2010 at 12:00 PM

"assuming that your future baba hasn't taken the shotgun to you? :-)"

..lol. Is it shotguns [or sometimes in the west we also say Elephant guns] in China, or would it be a sword? ...or maybe just bare hands...an old gong fu master, hehe? [ don't be nervous xiao_liang....just trying to clear up some cultural points here]

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pretzellogic
October 19, 2010 at 03:40 AM

oh, i c.....

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 04:19 PM

Oops, I meant this lesson:

http://chinesepod.com/lessons/meeting-the-girlfriends-parents

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xiao_liang
October 18, 2010 at 03:36 PM

Hey, you don't hold back huh? :-)

Well, as per the lesson, apparently if you go to see her parents, it's implicit you're going to marry at some point. Given that we live in different cities right now, that's not going to happen JUST yet (I only got divorced this year! Gimme a break!), but it will at some point in the future.

So no, not on this trip :-p